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Beolink 7000 back light and recapping.

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BO
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BO posted on Thu, Nov 22 2012 9:05 PM

I received a package with some components from Conrad.

 


My Beolink 7000 with very weak back-light.



Assistant

 

1. Remove the two screws

 

2. Remove the cap.

 

3. Remove the last two screws.

 

4. Remove glass panel, don´t touch the inside. Be aware that the small four corner nuts don´t fall out.

 

5. Test the voltage. Should be around 130V

 

6. Disconnect display pcb from the other units. Be gentle with the ribbon cables. 

 

New electrolumiscent film.

 

Testing

 

7. Slide fixing rails to the left and remove them to release the LCD front frame. 

 

8. Remove front frame

 

9. Unsolder old film.

 

10. Unfold LCD display. Try not to touch the surfaces, especially the inside. Be very careful with the "rubber" profiles still on the glass. Those are the actual leads from the PCB to the LCD, if the will be miss positioned or contaminated with dirt dust or grease you will get an improper or faulty readout from the display.

 

11. Remove the luminescent foil. It's attache with two stripes of double sided tape on the backside.

 

Old and new.

 

12. Mark the size. Assure that you get the lead in the same position.

 

13. Cut it to correct size.
 

 

Ready for assembling.

 

14. Mount the new foil in position with two stripes of double sided tape on the back side. put the leads through the holes in the PBB.

 

15. Solder and reassemble in opposite order as the disassembling.

 

16. Testing....I do believe it's working...good...
 

 

17. Adjust the LCD contrast.
 

 

Potentiometer for contrast adjustment of the LCD.

 

18. And now the recapping, unsolder and remove tin housing. The five now visible capacitors should be replaces. The two violet ones to the left, the two smd´s in the middle and the green one to the right. This has been described in other threads  so I won't go deep into it.
 

 

19 Prepare the new components.

 

 

20. Soldered in place.
 

 

21. All components changed. Be careful with the small smd´s, the can be tricky to solder due to its small size. I also changed all other electrolytic capacitors. Not necessary now but just precaution.
 

 

22. Reassembled and working perfect again.Smile
 

 

 

//Bo.
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elephant
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excellent - you are a LEGEND Yes - thumbs up

BeoNut since '75

Leslie
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Leslie replied on Thu, Nov 22 2012 9:44 PM

Now THAT'S what I called a workinstruction! My great compliments to you BoYes - thumbs up

Please post others you did with your B&O gear (I know you did)Whistle

Brengen & Ophalen

Leslie
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Leslie replied on Thu, Nov 22 2012 9:51 PM

Can you show us the BOM (Bill of Materials)?

Brengen & Ophalen

BO
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valve1
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valve1 replied on Fri, Nov 23 2012 4:06 PM

Great post Bos00 !

SEMG
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SEMG replied on Wed, Dec 19 2012 3:41 PM

Sorry, Can anyone help with how to get the "Red One line status display" repaired - Totally dead, but two way communication works great when programming Timers ?

Søren Mexico
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Top job Bo, congrats, I actually lived in Halmstad from 73 to 81

Collecting Vintage B&O is not a hobby, its a lifestyle.

BO
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BO replied on Wed, Dec 19 2012 4:58 PM

Søren Mexico:

Top job Bo, congrats, I actually lived in Halmstad from 73 to 81

Interesting, I moved here -84. I bet you miss the rainy winters Wink

Regards

Bo

//Bo.
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Peter
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Peter replied on Wed, Dec 19 2012 5:42 PM

Staggering! Wonderful job and beautifully presented. I am deeply impressed.

Peter

BO
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BO replied on Wed, Dec 19 2012 8:01 PM

Peter:

Staggering! Wonderful job and beautifully presented. I am deeply impressed.

Thanks

//Bo.
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MartinM
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Hi,

I also have a couple of BL7000's that have fairly weak back lights. After reading this thread I decided to have a go at replacing the backlight as well as full recap and battery replacement on both BL7000's. I ordered a couple of backlights from Conrad and caps from Mouser. Followed the instructions in this thread and have successfully completed the replacement. Only tricky part was aligning the display contact pads with the contact pads on the PCB.

 

Top is the cold source backlight from Conrad. Lower is the Original B&O Backlight. Interestingly the backlight voltage on my Beolink measured about 95 volts. Yet to measure what it is on the other BL.

 

Picture below shows the display board and keyboard flipped up exposing the lower CPU board. Even though two way communication worked on this remote I decided to replace all the capacitors since I had the remote apart. Just as well as the IR area around the top of the display board had the tell tale fishy smell of the leaking SMD caps. My ESR meter will read up to 20 Ohms but it would not give a reading on the SMD caps! Amazing the comms still worked.

 

Lower CPU board removed and shows the Sanyo CR2430 battery. This measured around 3 volts but I decided to replace it with a new one considering it is 20 plus years old.

 

Beolink on left with new backlight. Difficult to photograph, but it is very bright and clear. Display looks washed out in photo but it is just the camera having difficulty with the two brightness contrasts. Photo does not do it justice. Beolink on right is next up for same treatment.

 

BO
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BO replied on Fri, Dec 21 2012 10:06 AM

MartinM:
I also have a couple of BL7000's that have fairly weak back lights. After reading this thread I decided to have a go at replacing the backlight as well as full recap and battery replacement on both BL7000's.

Very nice to see. Smile

As you mentioned, aligning the contact pads are the delicate thing in this operation.

 

 

//Bo.
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Leslie
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Leslie replied on Fri, Dec 21 2012 10:23 AM

Great job  MartinM, now I definetely will give it a try myself. Ordered the components at Conrad.

I have seven of those that needs new backlights so let's start with one first!

Brengen & Ophalen

BO
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BO replied on Fri, Dec 21 2012 10:30 AM

@Leslie,

I like your new profile picture. Big Smile

//Bo.
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