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Beogram 8000 on the way...

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etype76
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etype76 posted on Mon, Aug 24 2015 5:05 PM

Hello all, I'm new here and live in Japan,

 

My current turntable is a Thorens TD160 with a Rega arm which I restored and it looks great to say it was a spontaneous Ebay purchase. Now I've made another such purchase, a Beogram 8000. I have read enough to realise that these machines need plenty of TLC after 30+ years. 

My first question is basically, What is the first order of business when the turntable arrives? I understand that it is working and in "excellent condition" with a MMC20CL cartridge with the original protector. 

Beyond that, I don't know much else...

Any initial pointers appreciated. 

 

Thanks

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sonavor
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Here is what it looks like when it is in place with the tonearm assembly and the drive shaft. Note that these pictures are of a Beogram 8002 but the transport mechanism is essentially the same. I didn't take pictures of this area when my Beogram 8000 was disassembled. I have another Beogram 8000 that I will be restoring in a month (or two) and I will make sure to capture this area in more detail.


sonavor
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Here is the tonearm assembly with the drive shaft and rails removed to show where your missing guide goes.


chartz
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chartz replied on Wed, Sep 16 2015 7:30 PM

Thanks for the pics John. Very useful for our friend here! Smile

Jacques

etype76
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etype76 replied on Thu, Sep 17 2015 10:19 AM

Yes, thank you! it was attached to the rear shaft, really out of the way with the forks pointing to the back of the unit, luckily, they're in tact. I think I've fitted back on correctly now and the whole assembly is under the tonearm lid once again. I decided to plug the unit in, the red dot on the display lit up and the inner platter rotated, I heard the tonearm servo. I unplugged it as I didn't want to cause (further) damage. Not sure what this means but I'll continue with the recap over the weekend.

 

etype76
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Pretty good progress today, I have soldered all but one (the largest 2200uf / 63v) capacitor. I also managed to reflow/resolder all the joints near the connectors, basically the areas marked red on Martin's cap location chart. The second largest cap of the same value was an odd thing, on the trace side, C24. The lines indicating where the cap was and the holes were filled with solder but the actual pins were through two other holes next to them. The polarity was also different from that marked on the board. I soldered the new cap exactly as the old one was (Sorry, no pic at the moment) it does look exactly the same as one one on Sonavor's board. I'll solder C27 exactly the same as well.

chartz
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chartz replied on Sat, Sep 19 2015 1:56 PM

Yes, there are such mistakes sometimes. You did the right thing. In case there's a doubt, the circuit diagram will of course give the answer immediately.

Jacques

sonavor
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On the large 2200 capacitor I like to pull the metal mounting ring off the original capacitor (pair of needle nose pliers) and use that as a base for the new capacitor that just has two leads. That makes the install a little easier. The circuit board was designed for that type of capacitor.  The positive lead goes through the center hole and the negative lead is bent and soldered to the metal base.

sonavor
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Here is a picture of the Beogram 8000 main board trace side where C27 is soldered. The three negative posts shown are where the mounting ring leads are soldered.


sonavor
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Here is the C27 mounting ring ready for reuse with the new capacitor.


sonavor
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This picture is with the new capacitors in place.


etype76
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Great, those pics are very clear, thanks. Here's what I did, This is what you meant by soldering the negative pin to the metal base, right? 

I detached the metal ring from the old 2200uf cap with needle-nose pliers and place it around the new one, just bending the positive pin towards centre and 'curling' the negative pin around the metal ring. I held it in place with a blob of blu-tak and soldered the pin. Then I place the positive pin in the centre hole and the 3 other negative pins just lined up through the outer holes. Again, blu-tak held the cap down while I soldered the trace side. Here are a few pics. 

 

 


etype76
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And with the pin soldered on. (sorry, images a bit small.)


etype76
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Here is 2200uf / 50v soldered into place;

 

 


etype76
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Trace side, C27 soldered into place.

 


etype76
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So, that's everything done. Just one thing, in Martin's kit there is a 2,2uf spare. There's a note '2,2uf - Mount Radial or Axial type according to the original. but I have this spare 2,2uf radial now. I've gone over the chart and everything seems to be in place. Anyway, what would you say is the next step?

Here are two pics of the board, from both sides;

Thanks

 


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