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Beomaster 5500 US to Euro mains conversion

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beomaster224
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beomaster224 posted on Fri, Mar 16 2012 11:37 AM

Hello everybody,

as a follow-up to my thread on the old forum (http://archivedforum.beoworld.org/forums/t/43485.aspx) I finally received a BM 5500 (2332, a UK model) which serves as donor for my US-spec BM 5500 (2333). The UK model seems to power up but the display stays dark, the US model is said to be working but lacking a voltage converter I couldn't test it yet, and if it works, the transplantation seems to be less work than searching for the error on my UK model.

Can anyone tell me, if I can simply unplug all cables from the UK model and plug it into the US model as it is? If so, is there anything else I have to take care of (fuses, etc.)? I already got the UK transformer out as you can see on the picture below. The picture of the transformer still in the amp is the american one. Any help is appreciated.

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tournedos
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The swap looks fine to me.

The fuse on top needs to be the one that came with that particular transformer (or mains voltage, more appropriately), so that'll be 2A as you have now.

The secondary side is a bit problematic - the service manual confirms the values you have noted for F1 (red in your pic), but I'm not sure why it is different in the US version. The US version (and only that) also has a third 0.5A fuse somewhere. I think I would leave that be and replace the red fuse with the UK value, 4A.

Be careful with the solder tab (green wire) that is sticking up in the pic in your first post. I don't think there's room for it under the top cover like that and it may break when you bend it back.

--mika

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beomaster224
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Okay, I admit, I'm impatient... but the amp was standing around for more than 2 weeks now and I couldn't do anything with it, and it feels like it's close to functional...

So, I already fitted the UK transformer into the US amp. I guess it should be fine. What I'm wondering about is the fuses. Since the little PCB 'on top' of the transformer (the primary side I assume, since that's were the power goes in, right?) is attached to the mains unit, I left the fuse as it is. Then, there's another fuse below the transformer, attached to the 'main' PCB, right next to where the two green cables are connected to the board. I'm not sure if I should change that one (I did, but I won't connect it before anyone with a better idea of fuses than me agrees on that...). I put the ratings of the fuses on the picture below (but you'll have to imagine the new transformer in the picture, didn't take a new one Wink ).

Which fuses are the correct ones for 230V? All UK fuses instead of the US ones? Mixed? Confused

tournedos
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The swap looks fine to me.

The fuse on top needs to be the one that came with that particular transformer (or mains voltage, more appropriately), so that'll be 2A as you have now.

The secondary side is a bit problematic - the service manual confirms the values you have noted for F1 (red in your pic), but I'm not sure why it is different in the US version. The US version (and only that) also has a third 0.5A fuse somewhere. I think I would leave that be and replace the red fuse with the UK value, 4A.

Be careful with the solder tab (green wire) that is sticking up in the pic in your first post. I don't think there's room for it under the top cover like that and it may break when you bend it back.

--mika

beomaster224
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Thanks Mika,

that's just what I did, replacing the two fuses I found with the UK fuses (well, as I mentioned, I didn't need to change the green marked fuse as the small PCB stayed with the transformer anyway).

As for the 3rd fuse: I simply couldn't find it. The space between the rear of the amp and the transformer (below in the picture) was covered by the 2 Elkos. I removed them to look there, but still no sign of another fuse (the diagram from the service manual didn't really help in finding my way around in the amp...).

I guess the difference in the rating of the fuses might be because of the mysterious 3rd fuse (2.5A+0.5A -> 3A vs. 4A?) but I obviously have no idea about that. The only thing that worries me is if the rating isn't too high now, so that the fuse might blow to late (the amp is rated at 225W). If my memory about VA serves me right, 2.5A@125V = 312,5W while 4A@250V =1000W. Or 375W for the 3A@125V rating I just made up before Whistle

beomaster224
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Just to let you know: connected it (I admit I took a few steps back when I switched the power strip on Cool ) saw the red dot on the display, grabbed the MCP and switched around a bit, it works Lets have a Party !!!.

So, thanks Mika Beer

Guess it's time now for a thread about my Beogram 5005 with the fast-moving and non-raising arm... Whistle

tournedos
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Good work Yes - thumbs up

Fuse F1 on the main board (4A) protects the part of the power supply that feeds the circuits that are active even in standby. Perhaps the power-on surge is somehow different with 120V primary and the smaller fuse is adequate with that. European models have a 4A there so it must be safe.

F2 (the mystery fuse) is not linked with that in any way, it only seems to feed the IR transmitter. I'm stumped as to why it is there only in the US model (and what purpose it serves even there). But, if you have good traffic with the MCP, the fuse is either in order or not really there at all even though the schematic shows it - so I guess you can just forget about it Big Smile

--mika

Leslie
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Leslie replied on Fri, Mar 16 2012 9:39 PM

What a wonderfull forum this is, all the expertise from our moderators!Smile

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