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Beomaster 6000 (type 2702) faults

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Struer
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Struer Posted: Fri, Aug 7 2020 2:29 PM
Dear all,

I recently purchased a Beomaster 6000. Cosmetically It is quite shabby looking and too add to this it wasn’t packed well and the circular wheel section of the aluminium of the front end (PC no.1) is really damaged. I have flattened it a bit, but it will never be entirely flat. The acrylic is scuffed and scratched as would be expected.

I initially I did manage to get some sound from the phono, Tuning FM, radio presets and aux 2. The radio was bright and full sounding. It initially took a while to awaken. The Phono using the beogram CD4 Board with a MMC 20S cartridge worked but the sound was a bit muddy with a lower output of sound compared to the Tuning FM/ AUX/ settings.

The start of the real problems…I turned it off at the switch at the back and It shorted something when I added another set of the speaker connectors. (There seems to be residual power for a few seconds, therefore I should have turned it off at the mains and waited…). Now none of the outputs play audio. The only sound is a click/ thump sound through the speakers and a few seconds of audio when standby is initially pressed.

None of the lights bulbs are powered on the PC12 - motor control. This problem existed before I shorted the audio output. Three of the bulbs illuminate through an external 9V battery. The motor activates when any of the command buttons on (PC 12 motor control) are activated on.

Only three of the clutch disks activate when standby is pressed or when the individual channels are pressed: Volume, >

Also when pressing TAPE on EL Switch - PC No.8 after any other setting i.e -Aux2 and Q4 both sets of lights stayed illuminated I. AUX2 and TAPE; Q4 and TAPE

Therefore there seems to be a problem with power reaching part of (PC 12 motor control).

Finally were the set of unused leads pictured in the yellow sheath not wired to enable an upgrade on the machine at a later date?

Any advice suggestion would be welcomed. I have read archive threads and Beolovers blog. Another member mentioned that they also had no power going to the bulbs on the (motor control board 12) but the thread took another direction...

Kind regards,

Struer

Craig
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Craig replied on Sat, Aug 8 2020 7:57 AM

There's a lot going on there......your going to need to tackle one at a time.....the black wires all tied together are almost certainly ground connections that have broken away, these single strand wires are a menace in this unit and are constantly coming loose....they will also be responsible for some of your problems, they should all ne tied/soldered to a central point close to where they are right now...do you have a circuit diagram?

Craig

Struer
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Thanks for this. Funny you should mention the grounding issue. On a closer inspection last night I

discovered the initial source of the wires. I will resolder now.

Kind regards

Craig
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Craig replied on Sat, Aug 8 2020 9:03 AM

Yes that looks right....also check the four big output capacitors.....i have found these failed due to corroded connections and out of spec.

Craig

Struer
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Hi again, I have soldered the three wires to grounding terminal.

I am getting and learning all the pitfalls of this system that I’ve read about. When turning on the power again one of the Darlingtons blew (MJ3001) and the red resister beside it. I will order some more Darlington and persevere aware of the complexities with this repair. In the meantime, thanks.

One question would you or anyone else on here have an up to date Capacitor list for one of the main suppliers?

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Dillen replied on Sat, Aug 8 2020 12:04 PM

I suggest you repair the current issues before eventually doing a recap.

Martin

Craig
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Craig replied on Sat, Aug 8 2020 12:44 PM

That power output board will have bowed over time and that's possibly why it has shorted out against the support, in one of my repairs I inserted a sheet of thin mylar the same size as the output board between the board and the metal support to prevent this happening.....

Craig

Craig
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Craig replied on Sun, Aug 9 2020 9:47 AM

Have a look at this thread for a little more information

 

https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/t/28592.aspx?PageIndex=5

Struer
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That makes total sense as recapping at this stage will most likely add to a chain of more faults.

My main issue for wanting to buy modern equivalent capacitors and transistors in one go is that all the main companies charge a handling fee up to a certain amount + shipping + VAT. 

 

Also i will send you a DM you regarding a kit for the Beomaster 2400/ 1900.

 

Kind regards,

Struer

Struer
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Yes, you are correct, the board is bowed when i examined it. I am going to order some MJ3001 most likely from CPC. 

 

 


Struer
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Thanks, i haven't come across this thread before. 

 

kind regards,

Struer

Struer
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Great archive posts.

Here is the control panel for the Beomaster 6000

(Type 2702) pre delivery

And how I received it

After some work on my part, but this will never be without damage I’m thinking. Any suggestions?

The cosmetics aren’t a massive priority right now....

Struer
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Hi, is anyone able to confirm if the loose black lead goes on the solder point above the red lead on the board pictured?

sonavor
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sonavor replied on Wed, Aug 12 2020 3:43 AM

Hi,

For a complete look through of a Beomaster 6000 (type 2702) restoration I suggest looking at the really nice restoration by Alain ("boneofiel") on the Beolover Blog

The link takes you to the end result but you can use the back links at the bottom of each page to go through the whole thing.

For those of you that tackle one of those restorations my hat is off to you. You are much braver than I. The Beomaster 6000 quad unit has to be the most complex and difficult Beomaster to restore.  Alain has been restoring them for a long time.

-sonavor

square4
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square4 replied on Wed, Aug 12 2020 12:30 PM

Hi Struer.

Here is a picture of mine bm 6000

 

Henrik.

 

square4
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square4 replied on Wed, Aug 12 2020 12:43 PM

You can click on the picture to enlarge it. 

Henrik. 

Struer
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Yes, very impressive. Taking it to crazy heights of perfection. Very good work
Struer
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Thanks so much for this.

Seems like that black lead is going to the grounding connection. Mine may not have ever been attached unless I’m not looking properly.

Struer
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I don’t have the remote yet.
sonavor
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sonavor replied on Wed, Aug 12 2020 3:57 PM

Isn't the solder pad you were thinking it went to the same ground?  It looks like your black wire was just attached to a different point on the plane.

-sonavor

Struer
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More confused now. Can’t find the spot where it came off... and the manual on this section isn’t such a sharp scan
sonavor
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sonavor replied on Wed, Aug 12 2020 7:20 PM

The photo of the same area from square4 shows his corresponding black wire going to the solder pad that is the one near your board sticker.
You could put it there.  It just doesn't look like yours came from that same spot.  Your boards are slightly different.  The pad next to the red wire you originally pointed out looks like that is where it came from. It should be the same node as square4's black wire.

That being said, I would still recommend...Get the service manual out, verify exactly what the black wire is (what it is supposed to connect - to and from), then verify that on your board. You can't go wrong that way.

-sonavor

Struer
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Very well deduced. I agree, but that pad has never used touched by a solder. Maybe those boards are from slightly different era machines.

I’ll check the manual again but the one I have downloaded from this site is a bit doesn’t have a sharp scan of that board diagram
sonavor
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sonavor replied on Wed, Aug 12 2020 10:00 PM

From what I can tell the lead that the red wire is on is the 11C41 positive side (on the output amplifier board).  It looks like the red wire carries 60V from the P7 board. The other side of the 11C41 capacitor is to ground and that is where the black wire goes.

-sonavor

Struer
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That sounds right as the other end of the black lead is part of a cluster of three black leads that go to a ground post/ terminal.

So X marks the spot then in this pic?

Or a circle I should say

sonavor
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sonavor replied on Wed, Aug 12 2020 10:37 PM

That is how I read it.

-sonavor

Struer
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Yes, with the black lead re attached it means that the lamps on the EL board stay illuminated again when selected, without the black lead connected 

the lamps or button don't activated. So that helped and is useful to have re attached.

square4
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square4 replied on Sun, Sep 6 2020 12:52 PM

Hi Struer.

I was almost sure i had a control panel lying somewhere and now i have found it.

It is in really good condition,it has small scratch and on the back side there are 2 plastic pieces missing,but you can take them from your own panel and glue them on.

it is for the last of the bm 6000 models with a hole for a small red lamp which lights up when using the remote control ,but it can certainly be used for both models.

Are you interested in it ?

Henrik.

 

Struer
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Hi Henrik,

I just messaged you.

kind regards,

Ciarán

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