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A Beogram 4000

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Craig
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Craig posted on Sun, Nov 4 2018 4:22 PM

Drove down to Manchester yesterday to do some Christmas shopping, and picked this up while I was there...ebay again, need to get a handle on this ;¬)


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sonavor
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I would use hot glue (i.e. hot glue gun). The glue dries immediately but can be pried off in the future the next time that capacitors need replacing. 

Or better yet, get the reservoir capacitor kit from Beolover.

-sonavor

Velvet
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Velvet replied on Tue, Dec 4 2018 11:58 AM

Beolover kit is a true beauty.

Hot glue and adhesive felts (the ones you put under the chairs legs) will do the trick to keep the original brackets with smaller caps. I did this way, and the result is not that bad.

Craig
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Never thought of using a hot glue gun, will give it a go. Meanwhile I have a new reed relay on order so set about removing the failed component...the 24vdc relat in question is second from the bottom


Craig
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Un soldered the two red leads and removed as much of the surplus solder as I could from the right hand connection tab, with a little heat to melt the remaining solder I was able to bend the right side tab back away from the reed relay connector thus freeing one side..un soldering the left tab allowed me to draw the switch out from the coil...….


Craig
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However the patient didn't survive the procedure! so it's just as well it was kaput because it was never going back.....I'm expecting the installation of the new one will be more straight forward


Craig
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Replacement reed relay turned up over the weekend.....looks a lot smaller then the original but is functionally the same..


Craig
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Went in easily and works a treat.....scale illumination now comes alive only after the ON switch is activated.....


Craig
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This problem sorted I have moved on.....Now everything is good up to the record detection circuit, with or without a record on the platter the tone arm moves to the 25/30 position and stops followed by the lower command.....looks like the photo cell, or its circuit, is sensing a record in place at all times....not seeing the platter ridges and providing the required pulse perhaps, or just not working at all, this is what I get at the output of the photo cell into 1C9....poor pic I know, camera not fast enough I suspect.


Craig
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Following on from a bit of rational thinking, not something I'm known for, I disconnected the photocell from PCB1 and hooked it up to the scope. powered ON and stopped the detector arm mid way and spun the platter by hand


Craig
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Got this pulse through all the noise the scope was picking up....looks good enough to me, and it is in sync with the speed at which I spin the platter....so I need to look downstream I think.


Dillen
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Dillen replied on Wed, Dec 12 2018 8:43 PM

Also - check the lamps position in relation to the lens system.
It needs to sit right in the sweet spot.

Martin

Craig
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Cheers Martin....I'll have a play with the position, carefully ;¬)

Meanwhile I took this shot of the scope measuring at the collector of 1TR14 and I don't think it looks a million miles away from where it needs to be...


Craig
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And this is what I'm getting at the collector of 1TR15, again it looks sort of as it should......


Craig
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Craig replied on Wed, Dec 12 2018 9:53 PM

But I'm loosing it at the base of 1TR17 no pulse whatsoever...replaced 1C14, which had leaked, to no avail......time has overtaken my efforts this evening, back for another go tomorrow Indifferent

Craig
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Spotted something this evening by chance.....was measuring the DL signal into the logic to tell it that there's a record in place HIGH pick up arm can be lowered, LO pickup arm is blocked. The measurement was HIGH at 5.9 vdc


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