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How to change the beosound 9000 mk3' s CDM (CD VAM1250)?

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danielshen
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danielshen posted on Wed, Feb 1 2017 7:26 AM

Dear Beoworld,

My beosound 9000 mk3' s CD header looks dying. It always display CD PAUSE. I do have the service manual on hand. However, when I really start dismentle the machine, I will be deeply appreciated from your guys to share any experience you did before. I just attach the detailed dismantling step in here to ask and advice from your side:

(I am sorry, I can not put the Figure from the original service manual);

It actually looks like in step 9, it' s the one I am looking for to change the CDM - VAM 1250, am I right?

******************************************************************************************************

MECHANICAL/ELECTRICAL DISMANTLING

1. Glass lid

 

- Open the glass lid. The lid can be forced up if necessary.

- Disconnect the mains voltage.

- First loosen the screw on the left-hand side (approx. 3 turns).

- Hold the left-hand side of the glass while loosening the screw on the right-hand

side.

- Lift off the glass.

- Tighten the screws again, otherwise the screws will damage the top plate when

the lid function is activated.

- WHEN THE GLASS LID HAS BEEN REMOVED THE SLEDGE IS ONLY ABLE TO RUN

WHEN THE LID HINGES ARE IN THE OPEN POSITION. (SEE TEST MODE 74, IF

REQUIRED).

- Check finger protection after assembly.

 

2. Left aluminium plate (grooved profile)

 

- Lift the front edge on the left-hand side, push the plate to the left (it fi ts tightly),

and lift it off.

 

3. Release of sledge

 

- The sledge can be released in four different ways:

 

a) With the product switched on.

- Carry out point 1.

- Carry out test mode 72 (CD72, see TESTMODES page 5.13).

b) If the product cannot be switched on.

- Turn the big gearwheel under the sledge (in the middle on the left-hand side)

clockwise. Use a screw driver, if necessary (be careful not to scratch the bottom),

Fig. 3.

- Or point c.

c) If the product cannot be switched on and the sledge is placed in positions 5 or 6.

- Carry out points 6 to 8.

- Remove the two screws for the cover for the CD PCB. Remove the cover by pulling

it to the left.

- Remove the plug for the clamper motor (41P45).

- The clamper motor terminals are now accessible. Apply +9V DC. The sledge will

now be released.

d) If the sledge is placed in position 6 and cannot be moved.

- Remove the rear panel of the product, see point 14. The sledge is released by

turning the big gearwheel.

 

4. Cover for chassis top plate

 

- Carry out points 1 to 3.

- Push down the cover, tilt it out, and take it up, Fig. 3.

- Push the sledge into the notch that has been created.

 

5. Chassis top plate

 

- Carry out points 1 - 4.

- Switch off the product.

- Lift out the operating panel, and remove the nine screws marked A.

- Lift up and tilt backwards.

 

6. Cover for CD clamper

 

- Turn the cover until BANG & OLUFSEN is aligned with the hole, and then lift it off,

see Fig. 4.

 

7. Top plate for CD mechanism

 

- Carry out point 1 and point 6.

- Lift off the plate (it has some small barbs that hold it back).

 

8. Clamper arm

 

- Carry out point 1 as well as points 6 and 7.

- Remove the three screws marked B and two fl at springs.

- Loosen 7P62 and 7P63.

- Push down the clamper holder and then lift.

 

9. CD mechanism

 

- Carry out points 1 and 3 as well as points 6 to 8.

- Remove two screws from the cover over the CD mechanism.

- Lift the cover on the left-hand side and push it towards the right.

- Remove the two screws (C) for the cover of the CD PCB. Remove the cover by

pulling it towards the left.

- Remove two screws for PCB41, CD.

- Lift up PCB41 a little and remove P99.

- Remove one screw for the bracket on the CD mechanism.

- Remove the four screws (D) that hold the CD mechanism.

- Lift up the CD mechanism a little and loosen the fl ex cable. Watch out for the flex cable under the CD mechanism; the cable runs under the arm for the tension

springs.

 

10. Top plate

 

- Carry out the points 1 to 8.

- Remove 35P53, power supply for sledge motor.

- Remove two screws (E) for the clamper holder, and remove the holder, Fig. 8.

- Remove the six plugs with a thin hook or a similar object.

- Remove the six screws in the bottom (F), and loosen the two screws (G) (approx.

six turns), Fig. 7.

- PLACE THE SLEDGE AT THE CENTRE.

- Loosen 26P96.

- The top can now be removed by pulling it towards the right while holding the

sledge. It will be released from the sledge automatically when it reaches the end.

- LIFT THE TOP PLATE AS LITTLE AS POSSIBLE AND VERY CAREFULLY IN ORDER TO

AVOID DAMAGING THE RIBBON CABLE AND STEEL BAND FOR THE SLEDGE.

- IT IS IMPORTANT TO HOLD ON TO THE SLEDGE. THE WIRE SYSTEM HAS BEEN

“TIGHTENED” SO THAT IT IS VERY TIGHT.

- Remove the plastic strip over the well containing the ribbon cables and the wires

by lifting up the strip.

- Place the sledge at the centre of the product.

- Instal the red holder on the bracket for wires/cable, Fig. 9.

- Loosen the spring on the right-hand side of the product, if necessary. The spring is very tight. Be careful not to let the sledge turn around.

 

11. Sledge and ribbon cables

 

- Carry out the points 1 to 8, and remove the screws for the top plate (C, D, E), see point 10.

- Remove the plastic strip over the well containing the ribbon cables and the wires

by lifting up the strip.

- Instal the red holder on the bracket for wires/cable, Fig. 9.

- Remove two screws from the cover over the CD mechanism.

- Lift the cover on the left-hand side and push it towards the right.

- Remove the two screws for the cover for the CD PCB. Remove the cover.

- Loosen 41P46 and 41P47, Fig. 6.

- Remove 35P53, power supply for the sledge motor.

- Remove three screws (H) for the bracket for wires/cable, Fig. 9.

- Loosen 26P96.

- Lift up the top plate with the sledge carefully. Look out for the lead and ribbon

cables.

- Place a holder, perhaps a Tyrap, around the wire drive by the motor.

- Loosen the spring on the right-hand side of the product. The spring is very tight.

Be careful not to let the sledge turn around.

- When the reassembly has been completed the sledge must not catch when it is

moved while it is being pushed down at the same time.

 

12. Sledge motor and wire drive

 

- Carry out point 11.

- Remove the wires from the sledge.

- Remove three screws and lift up the motor section.

- Watch out for the tacho disc.

- Assembly, if necessary see pictures on page 5.19.

 

13. Gearbox

 

- Carry out the points 1 - 5.

- Remove four screws. The gearbox can now be lifted out.

- Remember to instal the chassis spring when the product is reassembled. The

pointed end must be facing the top plate.

 

14. Rear panel

 

- Remove twelve screws (J) and lift it off. Watch out for the 8 ground connections .

- When the rear panel is installed the product must not be upside down. Place it in

upright position, for example.

 

 

 

Answered (Verified) Verified Answer

Ralf
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Answered (Verified) Ralf replied on Wed, Feb 1 2017 10:24 AM
Verified by danielshen

Hi,

this is a copy of the service manual.

I have changed the pickup several times. You need steps 1,3,6,7 and 8 as mentioned above.

I put the sledge with testmode in the release position before dismanteling.

You have to find out which laser mechanics are build in, there are several types, it is possible that someone before changed it too.

They are all from Philips. Philips has made only a few types of laserpickups but millions of mechanics.

Your pickup should be a type with a shield soldered on top and with the DAC  TZA....

This laserpickup can be found in VAU1255/01/21 and 1254/01/11/21 mechanics. The PCB is labled with CDMPRO or CDMPRO2

You cannot find it in the VAM1250!

The type with the TDA... DAC can be found easily, beacause it was build in in many mechanics like VAU1250/01 etc. and CDM12.4

I have bought many pickups from ebay, but they did not work at all, i think many items are refurbished and not original Philips.

Very disappointing, i bought 6 from liberty in USA recently, but none was working! I dont know how this shop could earn so many good ratings.

Some shops sell parts from dismanteling old mechanics or replace the original Hitachi Laserdiode with a China type.

There is an huge increasing market with all that rubbish parts. They think, they are all little gold miners. :-)

The function lasts not very long and in all cases they will not read CDRW and CDR any more, or only sometimes. CDR and CDRW is one benefit of the MKIII Beosound 9000!

The best provider for original laserpickups and mechanics in Germany is Herr Schnepel from Justtone, but he is very high priced in my opinion.

So good luck.

Ralf

 

 

 

All Replies

Ralf
Top 500 Contributor
Hamburg Germany
189 Posts
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Bronze Member
Answered (Verified) Ralf replied on Wed, Feb 1 2017 10:24 AM
Verified by danielshen

Hi,

this is a copy of the service manual.

I have changed the pickup several times. You need steps 1,3,6,7 and 8 as mentioned above.

I put the sledge with testmode in the release position before dismanteling.

You have to find out which laser mechanics are build in, there are several types, it is possible that someone before changed it too.

They are all from Philips. Philips has made only a few types of laserpickups but millions of mechanics.

Your pickup should be a type with a shield soldered on top and with the DAC  TZA....

This laserpickup can be found in VAU1255/01/21 and 1254/01/11/21 mechanics. The PCB is labled with CDMPRO or CDMPRO2

You cannot find it in the VAM1250!

The type with the TDA... DAC can be found easily, beacause it was build in in many mechanics like VAU1250/01 etc. and CDM12.4

I have bought many pickups from ebay, but they did not work at all, i think many items are refurbished and not original Philips.

Very disappointing, i bought 6 from liberty in USA recently, but none was working! I dont know how this shop could earn so many good ratings.

Some shops sell parts from dismanteling old mechanics or replace the original Hitachi Laserdiode with a China type.

There is an huge increasing market with all that rubbish parts. They think, they are all little gold miners. :-)

The function lasts not very long and in all cases they will not read CDRW and CDR any more, or only sometimes. CDR and CDRW is one benefit of the MKIII Beosound 9000!

The best provider for original laserpickups and mechanics in Germany is Herr Schnepel from Justtone, but he is very high priced in my opinion.

So good luck.

Ralf

 

 

 

danielshen
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Hi, Ralf,

Thanks very much for your grest reply! May I know the German' s contact? I want to have a try to reach him for the CD pickup.

Daniel

marexy
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Hi

if you do not know electronics repair ..it's better to give it to someone who know B&O.

I  did repair few times BS 9000 after some DIY guys...and it's not fine work.

You need antistatic gloves or like...and you can do damage fast if you do not know what you are doing.

And like they say ...you need to know what you are looking for and where to find it ...typ of laser head...ect.

China and co. are all the same shi....t.

You have 20% chance that will work some time.

BS 9000 is delicate machine work and not like BS 2500, 2300 ....

 

Ralf
Top 500 Contributor
Hamburg Germany
189 Posts
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Bronze Member
Ralf replied on Wed, Feb 1 2017 2:19 PM

Hi,

no i disagree, it is very simple to change the laser, removing the glass door and loosen some nuts and bolts isn't quite that  difficult.

And of course you should first determine which laser you will need, as there were different types built in even in the same model. The unit is labled.

And it is mandatory to make some provisions against static voltage for any kind of  repair of electronic equipment.

It takes at least less than one hour.

My experience with B&O equipment is (independant from this forum) that many people will not share their knowledge. Everything seems to be magic.

This is the address of Mr. Schnepel. Send him a mail with a picture of your unit. He is a very handsome guy:

http://www.ersatzteil.justone-schnepel.de/html/vau1255_01_bang___olufsen_-typ.html

Ralf

marexy
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Hi

Yes ...i agree with ::: ( My experience with B&O equipment is (independant from this forum) that many people will not share their knowledge. Everything seems to be magic. )

And ..there are some Electroincs repair shops ...they can do from mint condtition unit a scrap...just see that last month...BS9000 MK3 broken glas..broken plastic ....OMG...

The owner cry like baby when he see that. grrrr

 

Ralf
Top 500 Contributor
Hamburg Germany
189 Posts
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Ralf replied on Thu, Feb 2 2017 9:43 AM

Yes, i agree: Non B&O repair shops are not recommended!

This is the reason why i make most repairs for myself since 30 years.

My B&O dealer has many many spareparts on stock.

Even difficult to find parts like transistors for older MX.

He makes software upgrades for me and repairs everything that need special tools.

He has a superb service, including cleaning and upgrading software free of charge. Nevertheless i am a good customer for him since the 80ies.

Every year i upgrade some of my B&O stuff.

Ralf

danielshen
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Thanks Ralf!

I think I will dismantle the machine first to get the exact defect part' s part no, then I will reach Mr. Handsome to change the new one. Excellent advice!

Daniel

 

marexy
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marexy replied on Thu, Feb 2 2017 11:13 AM

With me in Slovenia is a problem, because it is only one dealer and only one authorized servicer which is quite rude and unwilling to give advice let alone a little more assistance in terms of repair and the tricks.
Spare parts he does not want to sell even though I offer fair payment.


To all the knowledge I came alone, and over the Internet-online , and i buy all spare parts online.
Much better, is in Germany, I know that.

TWG
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TWG replied on Fri, Feb 3 2017 6:47 AM

Ralf:

My experience with B&O equipment is (independant from this forum) that many people will not share their knowledge. Everything seems to be magic.


Yes, this is my bad experience, too! It's a shame as it would make B&O life a lot easier!


That's why I say a big thank you for this thread and the ones like where the Arduino light control with Beo 4 and Philips Hue is explained!! Smile

Threads like this are an enrichment for this forum!

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