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Beogram 8000 on the way...

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etype76
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etype76 posted on Mon, Aug 24 2015 5:05 PM

Hello all, I'm new here and live in Japan,

 

My current turntable is a Thorens TD160 with a Rega arm which I restored and it looks great to say it was a spontaneous Ebay purchase. Now I've made another such purchase, a Beogram 8000. I have read enough to realise that these machines need plenty of TLC after 30+ years. 

My first question is basically, What is the first order of business when the turntable arrives? I understand that it is working and in "excellent condition" with a MMC20CL cartridge with the original protector. 

Beyond that, I don't know much else...

Any initial pointers appreciated. 

 

Thanks

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etype76
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and the trace side;

 

 


sonavor
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If you have the new tachodisk in place and all of the soldering done then it sounds like you are at the point to test the electronics (see the second to last posting on this page of my Beogram 8000 project). If everything is good you should get the Standby dot in the display when you plug the turntable in. If you do, then you can test functionality with the turntable control keypad. If you don't get the Standby dot, unplug the turntable and recheck all of the connectors. If that doesn't fix the problem, check the main DC voltages from the power supply. In the case of no voltage out of the power supply, check the fuses (including the one in the transformer case).

Hopefully you will have the Standby mode dot. In that case, the next step is to run through the mechanical adjustments per the service manual. They are covered on my thread starting here.

etype76
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I plugged it in and disappointingly though not entirely surprisingly there seems to be a fault. The display flashes 33.33 intermittently and then goes completely blank, it switches to 45;00 when I hit the 45 button. the platter spins automatically. There seems to be no life from the tonearm at all. I guess I'll have to open it up again...urghh. 

 

Thanks

sonavor
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As you see in my thread I don't put it back together until I know it is functioning correctly. It takes too long to put it all together and take it all apart again. 
Let's see what you currently have.

1. Plug in Beogram - Does the red Standby dot display?
2. Press the Turn button - Does the platter turn?
3. If the platter turns in Step 2, Press the 45 button - Does 45.00 display and does the platter spin at 45 RPM?
4. If the platter turns in Step 2, Press the 33 button - Does 33.33 display and does the platter spin at 33.33 RPM?
5. What happens when you press Play? Does the platter turn?

If the answer to Step 2 and Step 5 are No, then you will need to start probing some signals for voltage levels to diagnose where the problem is.

etype76
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Yeah, I knew in my gut I shouldn't have put it all together. Strange, I've just plugged it in again and it's behaving better. 

1. Red standby dot displays

2. Turn does not function.

3. When 45 is pressed it displays 45.00

4. When 33 is pressed it displays 33.33

5. when I press play, the platter turns and the tonearm moves a cm and the light comes on, then the display goes completely blank. 

Actually, the machine is not behaving so differently than when it arrived. Although, the + - buttons work (they didn't before)

As I mentioned earlier, Tokyo does run at 50Hz and this machine is 60Hz, also Tokyo is 100v and the machine is 120V. 

I am not using any transformer at the moment. 

 

Thanks.

etype76
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On plugging it in once more, the tonearm moved all the way over, but it won't move back now and stop won't function. The only way to halt it is to pull the plug but then the tonearm is stuck there. There's a slight humming sound as well. 

 

 


sonavor
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etype76:

Yeah, I knew in my gut I shouldn't have put it all together. Strange, I've just plugged it in again and it's behaving better. 

1. Red standby dot displays

2. Turn does not function.

3. When 45 is pressed it displays 45.00

4. When 33 is pressed it displays 33.33

5. when I press play, the platter turns and the tonearm moves a cm and the light comes on, then the display goes completely blank. 

Actually, the machine is not behaving so differently than when it arrived. Although, the + - buttons work (they didn't before)

As I mentioned earlier, Tokyo does run at 50Hz and this machine is 60Hz, also Tokyo is 100v and the machine is 120V. 

I am not using any transformer at the moment. 

 

Thanks.

The Beogram doesn't have any mechanical functionality that depends on the line frequency so the 50 Hz shouldn't matter. The AC voltage is converted to DC for operating the turntable circuitry. The low voltage could be an issue but you would have to measure the power supply output voltages you have to know for sure. 

Check the Manual << < and >> adjustment procedure on this page. I'm not saying that is the source of your problems but those two sensors in there do affect the way the tonearm moves. There is one lamp and two light sensors in that assembly (located on the control panel board).

sonavor
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etype76:

On plugging it in once more, the tonearm moved all the way over, but it won't move back now and stop won't function. The only way to halt it is to pull the plug but then the tonearm is stuck there. There's a slight humming sound as well. 



The humming sound is probably the tonearm motor trying to still move the tonearm forward. It sounds like the Beogram is not able to detect the tonearm reached the end of the travel. Leave the turntable unplugged for a while to let voltages settle out. When you plug the Beogram back in it should return the tonearm to rest. Once back to that position you need to get it back into service position so you can check out these malfunctions.  When it is all closed up you can't measure anything.

I actually have Beogram 8002 waiting for me to work on that has the same problem with travelling to the end and not returning. Unfortunately I won't be able to get to that turntable project for at least a month.

etype76
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Yes, you're right, the hum is the motor trying to push the tonearm forward beyond the spindle. Plugged in again today and it hasn't gone back to its rest. A transformer bringing it to 100v made no difference either. I bought a digital multimeter, have never used one before but I guess I'll need it to start trouble shooting. I need a break from it today, maybe I'll find some time tomorrow to get it back into the service position. I really want to get this thing up and working in the long run, cosmetically, it's beautiful. 

Oh, I found these in the chassis, do you know where they go? I think the rubber grommets go on the end of the shaft? 

 

Thanks

 

 

 


sonavor
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Here is what the end of the main rail looks like on one of my Beogram 8000 turntables.


etype76
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The main shaft on mine looks like this: somewhat different. 


etype76
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Ok, some good news and some bad. I put the machine back into the service position. I wanted to check that the tonearm was sitting correctly on the threaded spindle etc. It seemed to be, but disturbing it once more I broke a small piece of plastic off the front part of the tonearm that rests on the forward rail. I don't think it will terribly impede it as there's enough plastic left to still guide the arm. I have the piece, not sure if it can be 'glued' back on. 

I did that the wrong way round, I should have simply checked all connectors first, because a look behind the PCB showed that the control panel ribbon cable was in a right mess. It's rather fiddly to get back in, I thought I had lined them up but the black wire was out and the red / orange wires were probably in the same socket. Gently straightening them with tweezers and eyeing them in with a light secured them this time. All control panel functions are now operational, Turn included. Though the tonearm still wants to travel further than possible. Difference this time being, when I hit Stop it goes back to its rest. << >> also function. 

 

Here's a pic of the ribbon cable mess. CHECK all the pins are in the proper socket and in securely. 

 

 


sonavor
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etype76:

The main shaft on mine looks like this: somewhat different. 

It appears some of the rubber boot is torn off and is missing. I think Martin once mentioned that the rubber cushioning was added for the US market to reduce vibration caused by the 60 Hz line voltage. You will just need to add material to make sure the rail can be securely mounted and handle the tonearm assembly moving back and forth.

 

sonavor
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etype76:

Ok, some good news and some bad. I put the machine back into the service position. I wanted to check that the tonearm was sitting correctly on the threaded spindle etc. It seemed to be, but disturbing it once more I broke a small piece of plastic off the front part of the tonearm that rests on the forward rail. I don't think it will terribly impede it as there's enough plastic left to still guide the arm. I have the piece, not sure if it can be 'glued' back on. 

I did that the wrong way round, I should have simply checked all connectors first, because a look behind the PCB showed that the control panel ribbon cable was in a right mess. It's rather fiddly to get back in, I thought I had lined them up but the black wire was out and the red / orange wires were probably in the same socket. Gently straightening them with tweezers and eyeing them in with a light secured them this time. All control panel functions are now operational, Turn included. Though the tonearm still wants to travel further than possible. Difference this time being, when I hit Stop it goes back to its rest. << >> also function. 

 

Here's a pic of the ribbon cable mess. CHECK all the pins are in the proper socket and in securely. 

Have you checked the voltage levels on the photo resistors in the control panel yet?

When you hit play, then use the << >> buttons, does the tonearm stop?  While it is stopped do the platter speed selection buttons work correctly?

etype76
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I haven't checked the voltage on the control panel photo resistors mainly because I'm not sure how...yet! I'll check out your 8000 project for more guidance:

 

When I press Play and then either <<>> the tonearm stops and the platter speed selection buttons indicate 33.33 or 45.00

 

Also, I now realize that the tonearm assembly came up  too easily because the rear right plastic 'hook' was also partly broken. so now the tonearm is held firmly onto the rails with just one intact hook, the rear left one. Has anybody ever repaired a piece of broken plastic on the tonearm? I was thinking a thin small piece of plastic tubing glued into the recess of the plastic 'C' and feed the rail through it might work.

 

Thanks

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