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same from my listening experiences too – spent a fair bit of time flicking between 2 speaker groups : (A) Theatre with rear 28s (the triangle), and (B) Theatre, rear 28s, and front 18s (triangle plus front l/r)…..and while there is little doubt that the triangle on its own (A) is really really good, and will be plenty immersive for many modest living rooms, when it changed to (B) with the added front l/r’s, I did prefer the wider soundstage.

Helpful, Sandy, thanks. Where do you get the most bang for the buck - with the 28s in the rear and the 18s up front (as you are now configured)? Or conversely, with the 28s in front & 18s in rear?

Adding the front 18s to the triangle was not a binary, black / white, night and day difference though, and hence I can see why B&O are suggesting the triangle (with 28s rears) as a more than enough immersive setup for many. But for those a bit soundstage width sensitive (I’m in that camp), adding fronts does make an appreciable width improvement.

Thanks for this. Understanding that there are degrees of goodness, not simply great/awful dichotomies, helps with the monetary side of the buying decision. That said, I’m a wide soundstage guy myself.

for clarity, this is not my setup - my Theatre hasn't arrived yet - its the setup in Selfridges in London, where I have spent 2 decent listening sessions in their listening room.  But that was enough to inform me - and in my case, being a super wide sound stage guy too, I'd definitely be in the camp of wanting fronts with my Theatre, even in my modest lounge (5*5 metres).

My Theatre will sit in between front BL50's, spread 2.5meters either side of the Theatre.

For rears, I'll use BL17s, largely because I need to swap out my rear BL3's (dodge PL wire).

With my setup, I wouldn't obsess about rears too much - I just dont watch that many films with super special effects, where there are that many rear effects etc.

That all said, like those who have listened to the B&O suggested triangle (Theatre and rear 28s), its definitely very persuasive on its own merits, and more so than (for example) the equivalent of an Eclipse "triangle".

 

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BL17 are wonderful speakers but they definitely don’t work properly wirelessly. Since mine are wired, everything ok …

Just chipping in with my experience. I had 17's (still have them just in storage) connected wirelessly for many years with out issue. Right now I have 18's and a 19 via WiSA and no issues either. I have however kept the firmware up to date. Not sure if that makes a difference. Actually my first pair of 18's had trouble with wireless, but I complained to the store and luckily because I had 17's for so long running on WiSA without fault, they couldn't just say Oh traffic on the 5ghz blah blah blah." They gave me a new pair and they have worked flawlessly now for almost 5 years. I am looking forward to getting a theater now though. For years I had looked into options for having 4.1 with 18's, 17's and 19 but annoyed with the fluff and buying a third party WiSA device to manage that. Now finally Theater seems to lift the dream into reality.

I wonder if anyone have tried a software update of the Beolab 17, to get a better wireless connection?
/frank

It is my understanding the only way to update the software of the Beolab 17 is with the wireless transmitter?  It would be nice if you could do it through the Theatre.

 

So good news... the buzzing sound I was hearing in my front right BL18 speaker was being caused by the cable. It was a brand new Cat7 cable but that didn't cut it somehow. My dealer sent me a cable and the problem went away.

Sounds like it could have  been a shielding problem with the cable.

 

My new LG C2 77" TV arrived two weeks ago, and I've been using it with my Beosystem 4 while waiting for my Theatre to arrive. Using the LG remote to change HDMI inputs got pretty irritating. However, I discovered something amazing for those of us with a BLI. There is a system that can be added in the BLI to send controls to an LG WebOS TV!

I simply created a macro so that I can use the Beoremote One to send a CONTROL command to the BLI, which then changes the LG input to whatever input you select in the macro. For example, I renamed a CONTROL command "HDMI 4" and it will change the LG to the HDMI 4 input. You can even select other sources on the smart tv such as "Netflix" to be triggered by a CONTROL command, a color button, etc.