I have disconnection problems with my Beolab 18s - it will forget one of them (not the same one) and I have to add it back via the app. B&O suggested it was my wifi that was causing this and I should stop using 5ghz devices in the home, which isn't possible

Who are you working with to resolve these software issues? I'm working with my sales rep. He's been very helpful. I've had over 10 software updates, a new Beoremote, and nothing has worked so far.

I'd be interested to know if you're able to resolve your issues.

Good luck!

Please be adwised - do not update you Apple TV4 (IF YOU HAVE connected BST over the HDMI).

you will lose control from you BeoremoteOne.

problem ist the Apple TV uodate 17.4

i have had a short conwesation to the support team on the topic - no solution for the moment being!

sorry for the danish feedback form the support team - see below:

————-

Response By Email (18/03/2024 12.08 PM)

Hej Jens,

 

Tak for din henvendelse.

 

Når dit AppleTV ikke længere reagerer på Beoremote One, er det sandsynligvis, fordi Apple har begået en fejl ved seneste opdatering til version 17.4. Hvis dit AppleTV ikke er udstyret med et IR-øje, forgår betjening af AppleTV med Beoremote One via CEC og CEC fungerer ikke efter denne opdatering.

 

Hvis dit AppleTV er udstyret med et IR-øje, skal vi lede efter fejl et andet sted.

 

Vi regner med, at Apple løser problemet meget snart, men indtil da, er det kun muligt at betjene AppleTV med dets egen fjernbetjening.

Med venlig hilsen

 

Sussi | Customer Care

 

In addition.

For those who do not understand the danish answer from Sussi….

…..this is only in case you have relied on CEC for controlling.
Those who have control via PUC haven’t got this problem.

MM

link

Good afternoon! What is the difference between CEC and PUC? How is PUC control implemented? CEC, as far as I know, is implemented programmatically in HDMI, starting with version 1.4 (ARC), including the latest modification of eARC in version HDMI 2.1. What is needed to connect via PUC?

PUC is a method invented by Bang & Olufsen to control external devices, that are connected to a Bang & Olufsen tv (solution), with a B&O remote. Read about it  The origins of PUC goes back to the  90’ies and was previous called STB controlling. Read about that link Apart from the signal cable - nowadays the HDMI connection - you will need an ir-blaster attached to the external device and connected to the ir-connection port on the BV (or most recent to the Beosound Theatre). You can see a video about PUC  - in this example you see the BV11. In the ‘old days’ the needed codes had to be loaded via cable to the BV’s from a B&O technician - since modern BV’s are online, these codes can be downloaded directly from a B&O server and installed. MM

Good afternoon!

What is the difference between CEC and PUC? How is PUC control implemented?

CEC, as far as I know, is implemented programmatically in HDMI, starting with version 1.4 (ARC), including the latest modification of eARC in version HDMI 2.1. What is needed to connect via PUC?

Thank you so much)) Now everything has become clear.

Q: How do I setup a Listening Position for (2.0) music listening on Beosound Theatre?

A: Here is what I would do: I have a 5.0.2 setup (Theatre+Fronts+Surrounds+Front heights). If this was a Beovision Eclipse or 11 or similar and I wanted a listening position for music listening, I would probably create a dedicated 2.0 speaker group, where only the Front speakers were added. However, because bass management in Theatre works differently (all speakers play their part in the low frequencies based on their capability), I do it differently here.

1: I'll start by setting up and adjusting a Listening Position with all speakers, optimized for the sweetspot.

2: I’m lucky enough to have a room that allows for “the triangle”, so that I can sit perfectly in the middle of the 2 fronts at the same distance from each speaker, as the distance that the fronts are apart. Therefore, after the microphone measurement, I check that the distance to each front is set to the same (because I don’t want to mess with the timing between the 2 fronts, when I know I’m seated in the optimal position). While I’m at it, I check all the other distances too

3: Once the Listening Position with all speakers is perfectly tweaked, go to your desired Sound mode and ensure that the processing is set to ‘Direct’. Leave ‘Bass management’ ON. This way ALL your speakers are helping with the low end, even though it’s only the fronts that are playing everything above 120Hz.

Now you won’t hear large differences in bass performance, e.g. when switching from a movie in surround to music in stereo – AND you’re utilising the full performance of your carefully collected entertainment system.

Just to recap: If I only have one seating position, I can limit myself to 1 Listening Position with all speakers included, and 2 sound modes; one in Direct mode for music, and one in True Image for movies (my own preference, use something different if you like). Obviously, you may need a listening position optimised for more people, but that is kind of out of the scope of this question. Remember that you can assign a specific sound mode and listening position to each individual source via the app, so that you don’t have to change manually each time.

Enjoy the music :)

Worked as you described - thanks for sharing. This way the Theatre is contributing with its bass drivers even when playing in stereo with connected speakers.