Thanks so much everyone for the kind words. I do need some help though. 

I can't get the displays to work with my Beocenter 2300. However, they work perfectly with my Beomaster 4500. I've wired up an adapter just like the one IkeA bought from B&O:

Left side:

Pin 1 - 
Pin 2 - Outside of RCA
Pin 3 - Center Pin on RCA
Pin 4 -
Pin 5 - 
Pin 6 - Pin D
Pin 7 - Pin C
Pin 8 -

4 pin RCA from solder side:
    o      A not used
  -----    B not used
  o  o
 C   D

Right side:

Pin 1 - 
Pin 2 - Outside of RCA
Pin 3 - 
Pin 4 -
Pin 5 - Center Pin on RCA
Pin 6 - Pin D
Pin 7 - Pin C
Pin 8 -

4 pin RCA from solder side:
    o      A not used
  -----    B not used
  o  o
 C   D

I've traced all the connections and this connector should (and does, with the 4500) work. I either have a fault with my 2300 (which I have no other speakers with a display to test with), or some incompatibility. 

Any thoughts?

Superb job Egoh! The bending of the panels has been done by a professional, must be! Have you got a Cad drawing for these panels? Btw, you painted the 5 side panels of the labs, what did you do with the text on the switch panel? Did you taped them off?

Sorry, no CAD drawing. I carefully pulled a top piece and brought that to the local shop for measurement. It's a little easier in case we ended up switching thickness, etc.

In the end, I decided to not to do the little edge bends. The shop could only really do about 5-6mm lip and the design of the speaker can only allow for about 3mm max. We had a number of schemes to resolve it, but I decided it wasn't worth the trouble (or expense). The lip is helpful if you want to mount the panels easily. A good result can be achieved without the lip, but the panels must be glued (since the tape would add a gap). You need lots of clamps and weights to make sure the panel has a tight final fit. 

I didn't tape off the panels at all - everything was painted. The raised printing still shows a little, but I don't anticipate changing the settings ever. I'm a minimalist, so I don't mind. I even considered taking the B&O logo off but decided to leave it. I like how B&O discreetly put their logo on the Beolab 8000s...that's more my taste.

I think you're quite right about minimalism and do respect that. On the other hand I like to copie B&O as much as possible to get the original result. Please continue your excellent thread (with pictures)🤒

Great thread and I really like white Pentas!

They look brilliant, thank you for sharing!

IkeA wrote:

Your color combinations look so good I might redo my cloth and bases in black.

DO NOT! They look amazing! If you want black (well the originals are actually really dark gray), perhaps you should rather try & work out a swap with somebody!

Looks great! Would be nice If you could show us a picture of the whole Penta including the labs and the base.

IkeA,

Thanks for the kind words. I really do like the silver cloth as well. If you really want black, maybe another pair for another room? :) 

With regard to the crossovers, can you snap a quick picture of yours? A ask because my MKI Pentas have MKII crossovers. If you have the MKII crossovers, I'm more than happy to give you the list. That said, if I do another pair, I'm going to use non-polar electrolytics like B&O used. It's hard to find PP caps that fit well. Most of the ones at Parts Express are pretty beefy with 250V-400V ratings. The extra voltage rating means they are huge and very, very difficult to get in cleanly. Keep in mind that a change to PP caps will change the sound. Better or worse, you'll have to be judge.