Thanks for the feedback, I' check the caps and resistors before I send it away.

I decided to buy the skins from B&O since nobody promised they could do the 0.088" inside lips for the skins.
Buying the gear (leaf brake) to do this kind of forming would cost more in shipping than the cost of 4 skins from B&O.

I dont have a thread so I'll send you the pics and the PDF.

IkeA

BTW The fabricators could do a bend but with ~5mm or ~0.2" lip.
This would prevent you from inserting the skinny copper and aluminum colored strips between the two skins and the speaker grilles!

Hi Eric.

A few pictures of my Pentas pre the new skins from B&O.

Wrinkle on back of LH Penta.

Wrinkle on back of RH Penta. Needs a new top cap as well (from B&O).

Re-rubbered Mids. Missing the skin I peeled off and measured.

I started with gluing the ID to the cone. It helps if you stretch (slightly) the inside flange rubber. Experiment... This causes the ID to be "larger" than the “Roll”. Hence the inside flat part tends to follow the cone angle... I discovered this while wrestling with the first surround trying to constantly separate from the cone while it was drying. The rest worked like a charm.

"Chrome dome" on a BM 5500!

This is a picture of my “Shop Amp”. A rescued BM5500 that needs help starting, due to most likely, a defective relay. It starts very quiet and after a second start the sound comes on as it is supposed to. It also squeals when shifting from CD to Tape to TT to Radio???

I tried the alsacorp.com FX Chrome on the BM5500 and it shows every defect under the new skin. I’m glad I didn't skin the Pentas with this. The FX Brushed Aluminum or FX Brushed Stainless would be more forgiving.
Yes the speakers in the background (LH) are a pair of RL60s that I rebuilt the passive radiators and the crossovers on. They really rock now. The other pair in the RH corner are a set of BL6000s that I’m waiting on surrounds for from Holland. These will be my second pair of BL6000s that need to re-rubbered!

I’ll send you picks of the finished Pentas. I ordered Silver speaker cloth for them and I will see how that works out.
If they look like junk with silver, I’ll put the darkest black cloth on them to make them match the BL6000s.

The PDF file is on its way via Email.

Enjoy.
IkeA

Egoh - The adapter that I bought from B&O is affordable!
You get LH and RH adapter in a box for ~US$38.

They use the regular PL cables ~3mm in diameter.
I hid mine under the baseboards and only show the connector.
The RH adapter takes RH signal and connects it to the RCA connector on the speaker.
The data from your Beosystem goes to the oddball 4-pin SL connector (3 pins and a spade)!

The same goes for the LH adapter.

If you need the diagram:
In Danish - http://www.bbdownload.dk/diverse.html  Click om: BeoLink/Master Link

Here is another page: http://www.beoworld.org/beotech/wiring1.htm

I checked my adapters, pins from soldering side:

Left side:

Pin 1 -
Pin 2 - Outside of RCA
Pin 3 - Center Pin on RCA
Pin 4 -
Pin 5 -
Pin 6 - Pin D
Pin 7 - Pin C
Pin 8 -

4 pin RCA from solder side:
    o      A not used
  -----    B not used
  o  o
 C   D

Right side:

Pin 1 -
Pin 2 - Outside of RCA
Pin 3 -
Pin 4 -
Pin 5 - Center Pin on RCA
Pin 6 - Pin D
Pin 7 - Pin C
Pin 8 -

4 pin RCA from solder side:
    o      A not used
  -----    B not used
  o  o
 C   D

------------------------

I hope this helps.

IkeA

It will be interesting to see the penta's with silver frets!  Get a picture on when you have done it! 

Hey guys,

I'll have some updated pictures up this week. But, the midrange drivers have been re-foamed. The crossovers are mostly complete (waiting on a few more caps). Stainless has been fabricated. Waiting on parts for the amps.

I have a simple (and maybe stupid) question. Does anyone know how to remove the plastic from the heat sink of the amp? I'm planning on repainting the plastic and wanted to take it off first (since I didn't want paint on a heat sink). Those pieces seem snapped in there pretty good and I'm not sure how to remove them without damaging the plastic.

Thanks,

Eric

I guess nobody has removed the plastic. In any case, I figured it out. The plastic just slides off of the heatsink. It does need a firm tap to get it to move. I used a scrap piece of wood to protect the plastic and a mallet to get it out.

Keep the pictures coming, good luck!

OK guys, here is a quick update. The crossovers are finished. I don't recommend upgrading to polypropylene caps unless you like playing capacitor tetris. Everything fits and it sounds wonderful, but what a pain. 

Here is a picture of a stripped crossover:

link

Rebuilding crossovers:

link

Foam stripped:

link

Re-foaming in progress:

link

Fixing display boards:

link

Naked Pentas working as passive speakers right now:

link

You, sir, are a steely-eyed missile man.  Well done.

I've recently played some Tetris with crossover rebuilds myself and can sympathize.

Thanks, but I still have a long way to go. I'm polishing scratches out of plastic and starting to re-skin the speakers today.

The amps are pretty fried but I have most of the parts so I'm going to get to them as time allows. I don't have new potentiometers for the amps and I'm thinking it might be smart to change them out while everything is apart.

I'm dreading repainting the gray plastic since that's not my forte, but I definitely want to see them in satin black.