I agree it's probably best to use original caliber coils.

For my Beovox Pentas, I used Intertechnik Audyn MKT foil caps. Anything more exotic than that will be diminishing returns for me at least, even regular bipolar electrolytics will be a great improvement over the old tired ones. The basic 160V MKT caps are already physcally so large that it was necessary to snip a bit of the internal plastic structure of the speaker to make the 68µF cans fit.

The 27µF caps will be hard to find, so you might need to use f.e 22 + 4.7 in parallel.

I've heard Solen caps are also excellent, you might find them more easily over there.

Hi Egoh, very interesting projects your doing on Beoworld🤒

Maybe I missed something but what type of Penta's are you working on?

These are MKI Pentas but interestingly, they have MKII crossovers. The original owner didn't service them so they came from B&O that way...perhaps right before the MKII's came out.

Mark is being extremely helpful right now. We're trying to be sure of the gauge. I measure .008" diameter which is about 32 gauge. Based on the 1.1 ohm resistance of the 1.8mH coil, Mark thinks it's about 22 gauge. However, I can't be sure it's not melted and shorting. 

I may have to go pick up a micrometer....I'm measuring with a caliper right now.

egoh wrote:

Mark is being extremely helpful right now.

Very glad to hear that.

Wow! I'm working on a project just like yours.

Keep us posted on your progress!

I picked up a complete used 5500 sysem with CD, TT, TD, BM, MCP, 2 BL1000s and 2 Penta Mk1. My Pentas looked like yours on the outside with both tops bent badly (dragged across floor?).

If you are interested, I made a CAD dwg of the skins that I could forward to you, as a PDF file for your fabricator. Most metal shops balk at the short lips (3mm or ~0.12") at each edge of the skins, leaves no room to create a real sharp corner! I dont know yet which way I'll go with the skins...
I replaced the mid's foam surrounds with rubber and took the amps and housings apart to clean them (amazing how much dust is pulled in by the amp heat convection). If you are not restoring these to factory spec, you could skin them with brushed aluminum foil from alsacorp.com.

My Pentas are now up and running on my BS4500. The refurbished Penta Mk1s sound more rounded from low to high than my BL6000s!
BTW B&O USA has the adapter between PL/SL PN:6275896. These allows you to get the display working on the speakers on PowerLink systems.
Soundsheavenly.com sells complete speakerlink cables 4-pin (M-M both ends) up to 8M long, Item# "spkrlink", for your BS5500.

I did look in to replacing the caps and resistors on the XOs and priced the components at PartsExpress.com with 1% or 5% caps (all caps available), the parts bill is prohibitive at +US$250 for each XO! When they start sounding muzzeled I'll have to bite the bullet.
-------------------------

Beomaster 5500: I have replaced one missing RCA connector on the BM5500 and cleaned the inside of it. Why do people misplace the brackets that are supposed to hold the cover inplace on all these systems? I had to manufacture two of them from scratch with a hacksaw and a bench grinder! The BM5500 sounds really good. Goop cleaner removed most of the grime, however, be careful with the rubbing - you may work through the clearcoat and get down to bare metal!
---------------------------

My Beogram CD 5500 only plays on one channel, needs to go to California for service, unless somebody here knows what ails it!?! I did find soot around two resistors but no burn marks on them?

Next on list is TD (doesent close properly, Belts/Gear track?) and TT (New Belts and new cartridge - soundsmith.com) as well as the MCP (dial wheel not working properly, super glue time?)!

IkeA

Good luck.  And remember:  pics, or it didn't happen!

IkeA, I'd love to CAD drawing! Can you forward it to eric at egoh.com? Thanks! I'd love to see some pictures of your before and after. Do you have a thread.

I just fixed a Beogram CD4500 with a similar problem. I bet it's a blown cap and resistor in the opamp. Check C210, C110, R226, and R126. Other possible suspects are C211, C111. Check all the resistors in this area and you should be able to figure it out. Hope that helps.

Does anyone have the wiring diagram  for the powerlink to speakerlink adapter (PN:6275896). I can guess what goes where, but don't want to fry anything and I have a boatload of DIN connectors.