The forked lever is what's holding it down from underneath.  I pulled upward while rolling forward and backward.  After ten or fifteen seconds, it worked its way out.  But there are also arms on both sides that have to be lifted out of slots.

I am done with disassembly and taking a bit of a break. 

I followed Jari's instructions to the letter, with one addition.  As Jacques noted, the transport assembly can be removed (at least on my Type 4716) completely from the rest of the deck by removing an electrical harness at the back.

Jari's instructions are gold!  🤒

Here's a shot of the main belt.  That isn't going to get it done!

Well done so far!

Here's a video showing how the spools work.

[View:http://chartz.perso.neuf.fr/images/Beocord 5000/IMG_1355.MOV:350:600]

Yes, it took some wiggling to get the tapehead assembly out, but I did it without bending the parts (much..)...

You'll need even more patience to get it back, but just take it easy, have a cup of coffee (or something stronger if that't how You feel) and take Your time!

- Jari

Make sure the pole/bar coming out of the solenoid underneath is pushed out all the way.  Line up the fork into the solenoid bar/pole, then it's a bunch of pushing (lightly), moving side to side and back and forth and lining up the side arms with the slots.  And don't forget to get the ball bearings into their little grooves and upper mating part.

It's not that bad.

I'm stuck on putting the freaking springs back on the sides!  My pictures stink!  My memory is worse!  [:'(]

Yeah well that's why I bought the service manual! The real McCoy, not a scan!

Well, I got everything on the mechanism back into it's rightful place, then got the mechanism itself back into the case.  Got the two PCBs screwed back down, and got the solenoid clip back on.  So all that's left is to put the keyboard and the plastic back onto the top of the deck.  Except you have that belt to the timer that's connected to the keyboard.

I couldn't get it to stay.  Took many tries. 

When I finally had the keyboard and plastic back in place - and I thought the belt was in place - I flipped it over to screw it back together.  Except the wood was broken in a corner.  Oh well, fix that later.

Flipped the now assembled deck back over and plug it in.  Put a tape in.  Hit play.  Deck engages for a second then stops.  Try fast forward and reverse.  Works a little, then stops.

I remember reading this fault may be because the timer belt isn't working.  So I take the plastic back off, then peak under a PCB by bending it a bit.  Sure enough, that stupid timer belt isn't attached at the mechanism.  I bend the PCB a bit more to try to see if I can see if the belt is still attached to the keyboard underside, and....

...the PCB snaps apart!!!!

Two lessons learned:

1) Never take shortcuts.  Disassemble the darn unit completely again to check on the belt.  Never, ever, bend a PCB.  God!  I know better than this!!!  What an idiot I am.

2) I am not up to this task, because apparently I'm stupid and take shortcuts (see #1 above).

Well, I'm going to take a shower, cook some dinner, cool off with a few cocktails, and try not to think of this afternoon's EPIC FAILURE.

Perhaps tomorrow I'll check the PCB.  Maybe a bit of glue and some resoldering can fix it.

Things like that do happen...😡

But don't worry, superglue does bakelite quite well, and it WILL be fixed. That PCB looks very fragile indeed, and worse one side just stupidly hangs above empty space. I guess it broke each side of the hole...

Do Martin's belt fit well? 

Enjoy your meal and have a nice New Year's Eve!

Oh yes, the timer belt: I left only small opening between the machine and keyboard (i.e. almost closed the keyboard down) and then used my wife's crochet hooks to get the belt in place.

They are actually very good tools with all belts, tuning wires in old radios etc., the crochet hooks!

- Jari

By the way, when the counter belt is out, depress commands during five seconds to cancel auto-stop!