Changing belts on Beocord 5000 (4705, 4715) -part 2

61 replies

Well, I finally managed the almost impossible and changed the belts on my old Beocord 5000 - the 70's dual capstan model 4705 (or 4715). This is my story so far - still some mechanical adjustments to do!

(This is part 2 of the series, as I remembered to take photos only after I opened up the deck and started to dig into the cassette mechanism itself. The part 1 containing the deck disassembly will follow...)

This part 2 starts with disassembled deck, the cassette mechanism separated from the chassis but not from the wiring (except the tapehead bridge socket). Belt replacement is done with the soldered wiring in situ. The service manual covers replacement of the belts only partially, as it totally ignores the main (flat) drive belt.

Here I have highlighted the first steps to do: Firstly, remove the recording solenoid assembly on the right of the picture, two screws. At the same time You can take the third screw (in the middle of the two, behind the wiring socket in the picture) out. Taking this solenoid out is needed when changing the main drive belt.

Next take off all springs on both sides of the cassette mechanism, with associated arms and clips. There are 4 springs on left side and 3 more on right plus one under the mechanism. Note, mark and write down (or take pictures) the correct place of each spring!

Then take out the 2 roller arms, hold in place with locking rings (c-clips).

Then take out locking rings and rivets (left highlight on the picture) on both sides, and screws and spacers (right-hand hightlight) also on both sides of the mechanism. Note that the screw on the right side is longer and has two nuts (going thru an control arm as well).

Now the whole cassette holder (big black plastic part!) can be lifted off.

Then remove the screw and associated arm assembly shown here (on the right-hand highlight).

And next the upper square belt and its cord pulley with its locking ring.

Changing the belts part 2 continues...

Added a picture of the next step: Under the mechanism, the fork arm of the tapehead assembly is bended over a solenoid arm pin - unbend this arm until the whole tapehead assembly can be wiggled up and out.

NOTE: The tapehead assembly slides on the top plate with the help of small ball bearing balls (or whatever they are called), and in my case they were stuck on their grease so that they didn't fall out of place during my operation. However, if they do fall out, remember to fit them in place (with liberal amount of grease) when putting the tapehead assembly back!

(NOTE: In this picture the spring and hook just next to the arm connected to the solenoid pin are wrong - they should be on other side of the top plate, attached between the hole in the foot of the tapehead assembly arm and the front plate. I just forgot to put them in place when reassembling and tried the easy way out - it didn't work out!)

**** UPDATE: I'm adding two pictures to clarify these steps a bit more: Here I have removed the tapehead assembly (seen upside down on the right), which exposes the longer drive cord.

Now You can replace the longer drive cord - the lamp socket need to be removed aside first! In this picture, the longer cord has been replaced as is the shorter one.

In this phase I put the cord pulley and the shorter drive cord in place. If You have the wiring intact, the cords can be tested now by pressing the FF or REW buttons.

Then pry out the bottom plate from the front (if You removed all screws in the first step, if not, remove now the "third screw" on the front plate). It should fall out neatly and the two capstan assemblies with it.  It should look like this:

Then replace the first tape counter belt (there are two identical belts!).

Now You can put the capstans in place and fit the flat drive belt over them and the motor pulley:

Fit the bottom plate in place and tighten with the "third front plate" screw. Now You could try the belts by inserting a cassette carefully on its place (still without the black cassette holder). Try out PLAY, FF and REW - of course the capstan rollers are still missing so tape speed is not correct, but You can check that the belts are working and the tape moves.

That is it! The belts have been replaced (except the second tape counter belt which is fitted when the deck is reassembled) and all that is left is to put the whole thing back together!

And now the famous words: Reassembly is the reversal of the disassembly!

In this case, it really is, but seriously, be warned that there is a lot to adjust after You thought You got it all back as it was.

Part 1 containing the disassembly of the whole deck will follow - sometime soon....

Thanks to Martin ("Dillen") for the belts!. They were prototypes, and I dont know if and when a belt kit wil be available (just ask him!).

- Jari

Wow, this mech looks stunning! I had never seen one before and now I want one! Just look at this wonderful motor (the Japanese ones look like toy motors), those superb heads!

That's an excellent work Jari! The pictures are beautiful too. Once again, we may warmly thank Martin!

What does it sound like?

Ashamed to say, but don't know yet. Going to fiddle with the adjustments a while before trying out the sound. I got it with belts evaporated, so no previous experience either!

- Jari

These decks were actually designed and built by B&O themselves :) Very good Jari I have a 5000 sitting around (think only single capston will have to check) and have not felt like pulling it apart yet - despite lusting after an example for as long as I can remember lol!

One word springs to mind: Stunning!

My Father had a dual capstan 5000 when new, they were notoriously known for spending more time at the B&O workshop than any other B&O product! He sold it off when it was repaired the last time before the guarantee ran out ๐Ÿ˜Ž

Impressive decks and totally built by B&O, I would like to listen to it. Those big tapeheads must be doing something to the sound quality!

Great stuff Jari - this puts you in pole position for the 2011 Beoworld bravery award.๐Ÿ˜

Chris.

Well, I've just had a look at the service manual, and this is a bit daunting...

The mechanical adjustment part is really something! 

Oh well, let's do it! Mine is the two head version, but the mechanics are the same.๐Ÿ˜ฎ

Hi,

I have dismantled the transport, but not quite the way Jari did it, because I pulled it out completely: there is a connector at its back which you can safely pull, thus releasing the whole thing, and allowing to work far from the rest!

Photos will arrive in due time.

I have sound through the headphone amp, but only one channel is showing at the meters. When I short left and right at the PPM display, both channels light up. Since cabling is okay, I suspect a bad IC3 op-amp, which of course I don't have!

Anyway, 'scope time!

I started the transport. Trouble is, I had to bend the carriage on one side to be able to take it out... How did you do it, Jari? 

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