Hi Premiumverum

Very well spotted :D

Yes I used 10uF tantals in the preamp to replace the 10uF electrolytics in the signal path. I couldnt find any film caps that would fit the spacing on the preamp pcb. The input caps on my "new" output amps are 4.7uF wima film caps as you noticed.

My policy through the rebuild of my BM8000 was that I used ceramic caps up to 1uF and film caps from 1uF to about 10uF if there is space enough on the pcb. For higher values I use tantalium caps or electrolytics in the signal path if I cant fit ceramic or film types. I like the tantals more than electrolytes.

/Fredrik

soundchoice70 wrote:

Good to hear its all coming together.... albeit slowly...

And nice indeed, some MS150's, you managed to find some congratulations. 🤒

 

Thanx hehe, yes I have searched for a nice pair of MS150s for years. Cant wait until I can enjoy them together with the 8000 after all these hours in the workshop with the BM.

/Fredrik

Fredrik

That is fantastic work you have done! You can be very proud of yourself!

I think I can see a trend developing here at BeoWorld. As the years go on, the individual dedication of some members really inspires others to try things which were never done before, and not only try, but also succeed!

I think that the general standard of ability of members has increased enormously since BeoWorld started, and that is infectious in itself!

Well done, and I'm looking forward to see your machine exceed all expectations.

Menahem

Hi Menahem

Thanx for the kind words about my work on the BM!

I will upload more pics when Im done with the rebuild...

I agree with you. Beoworld with all its members have become a huge (and still growing) knowledge base with the ability to solve almost any issues with beo gear. Together we will move the limits forward of what is possible.

Its also fun that BeoWorld encourage those with little or no technical experience or interest.

/Fredrik

Hi Fredrick!

One year since we last heard of you and your superb restoration job...

Any news? Are you okay?

Yes this is a wonderful job, those boards are incredible, something I wouldn't have attempted that's for sure!

I have to say I had the same idea with those click switches to replace the originals but I accept the award goes to Mohawk as he posted first!

SO my question to Mohawk is how do you remove those spline washers (holding the keyboard) without risking damage the alu pins, and have you found any pop switches with the same clicky feel to the originals?

Hi all!

Chartz:

Its amazing how time flies hehe. Im doing fine. The BM is up and running. Ive found a pair of beovox ms150.2 to match the BM with. They work nice with the BM but they will need a refoam soon. Everything sounds great together and it was worth the job to restore this BM. 

Step1:

Im glad to hear this positive comments about my replacement boards. I had no choice since the original poweramp boards were so damaged by an uncareful repair technichian. The new boards fits exactly as the originals. If anyone want new poweramp PCBs for their BM8000 restoration I can have them manufactured for you.

To the question...I simply cut the old spline washers carefully and discarded them...Then I bought new ones like these https://www.elfa.se/elfa3~se_sv/elfa/init.do?item=48-319-54&toc=20905

I can get back to you later about what switches I used for that keyboard (im not at home for the moment).

Regards

Fredrik

Hi,

Glad to see you're still here!

Can you tell us how much these PCBs set you back? I, for one, am very interested but unlike you, I'll keep the old components... save those horrid trimmers and electrolytics of course!

The display PCB looks great too. Didn't you have a hard time unsoldering the LED displays, one year ago?😁

Hi Chartz

You got a PM!

Haha yes working with the LED displays is kind of a hard and time consuming job. But it was worth it to replace all the segments with new LEDs to get the readouts working nice again :D

/Fredrik