The Beomaster 6000 opens up really easy for maintenance. It's like opening the hood of a vehicle.  This is quite a change from the Beomaster 4000 I just finished.

The PCBs look like they are all connected via connectors instead of hard-wired like the older BM 4000.  Side note: With my second BM 4000 unit I worked on I am seriously considering making the board connections by installing high quality connectors.  That would allow me to experiment with some my spare BM 4000 PCBs. 

Anyway, continuing on...this picture of the Beomaster 6000 FM PCB shows the wiring to the board connectors I am talking about.

Here is a picture of the parts from Dillen's kit - electrolytic caps, trimmer pots, volume control belt and the IC for the tuner display problem.  He also provides instructions for where the parts go.  Very handy.

This model is one of my all time favorites! I have restored a few now, and enjoy doing so every time :) They all suffer from similar faults / weaknesses but one thing worth noting is don't go in all gung-ho those LED displays are very delicate (can be repaired with SMT leds but fidly) other things to watch for are connectors coming loose when jiggling things about which can cause much head scratching!

Also, be very careful with the switch panel when lifting off, it unclips from the front with three clips but do not lift up any further than is nesesary to pull the lifted clips forward beyond the front veneer. The rear of the switch panel has three clips clamping to the chassis (switch panel slides forward to release) and these can snap very easily!

You will need to to access the processor unit - and you will want to get to those pop buttons as well to clean as they can become quite badly oxidised. This results in the user pressing harder to activate the buttons which in turn puts stress on the clips holding the board to the panel, resulting in failure of the clips (usually the standby button!).

Worth stripping every last bit of this hifi (I even pull the speaker switches apart as the contacts are nearly always black with oxidation! might not make a lot of difference sound quality wise but I have had a switch fail to work, for this reason..

For the fault mentioned you could try dissconnecting the power to the amp. This will allow you to rule out fault detection. I am sure at least the standby led should remain lit though!

Will be interesting watching this thread :) Good luck!

Thanks for the tips.  I'll contact you when I get to some specific items you mention.  About that power fault...I did completely disconnect power to the amp when I first encountered the fault.  I let it set a bit, then plugged it back in.  The standby light wouldn't light and the unit was completely dead.  It was only when I plugged the power into my variac and brought power up slowly that it worked.  And when that worked I could hear a distinct click as I was dialing up the voltage.  There is an RL1 relay in the power protection circuit (PC11 module).  I am guessing that is the click I hear.   

I decided to start with Module 16 - Power Supply PCB because it has two electrolytic caps that are part of the kit that I have questions on.  In the following sequence of pictures you can see module 16 installed, removed and the trace side (with electrolytic caps C1 and C10 removed).  These two caps (C1 & C10) are packaged differently from usual electrolytic caps.  The positive terminal is at the bottom in the center.  The negative terminal is connected to the three mounting prongs of the case. 

For C1, the mounting prongs (negative leads) mount to three points on the PCB.  When I replace that with a typical two-lead electrolytic cap it appears from Dillen's instructions that I will have to make sure and jumper from the locations on the PCB I have shown with a yellow line.

For C10, the PCB marking for the negative terminal of the cap is not a hole in the PCB. So for that recap the instructions say to use the old cap case mounting hole I have marked with the negative sign (in a white circle).

Does that sound right?

Here is a measurement of the existing module 16 PCB C1 cap (3300uF) and the new, replacement cap.

Here is the finished module 16 PCB recap.  Note that there are three old cap mounting points that are no longer used.

The next board is Module 06 - Standby Power Supply and Volume Preset

In the picture, the large 10000uF capacitor is easily replaced and is the only one for this board in Dillen's kit.  The 22uF electrolytic cap is not in the kit and is not in the Beomaster 6000 service manual.  I have drawn on the inset picture of the schematic where this unknown cap is wired to - between +15VDC and ground near the IC5 chip.  I pulled the capacitor and measured it.  It currently measures 8.78uF. Is this capacitor a factory service bulletin type mod to the circuit or is this some mod someone that worked on the receiver added?  Do I put a new, good 22uF capacitor in its place?  The bottom part of the cap near its leads looks a little dark like maybe it got too much heat.  8.78uF seems to indicate this cap is bad.