Very good Martin!

Close enough - it was the -12V line.

The 6800uF services the +12V line.

Menahem

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Clive where you apply to fix this problem?

I have exactly the same problem in my Century. And it has the exactly same CD PCB.

I have changed all the SMD electrolytic caps on it, with regular feed through caps, but it didn’t help. On my board also the two biggest SMD caps (330uf and 100uf) where clearly damaged.

I also cleaned the laser couple of times just to be sure its clean. I tested both motors with DC supply and they are working great. There is also nice visual laser and focus seems to move clearly.

The service manual of Century doesn’t have the layout for this kind of PCB. So it is making the fixing a little bit more difficult.

If you did find some specific component to be damaged let me know. And if anybody has good ideas let them fly.

Pete

Hi,

I am glad to answer to my self. I got this fixed the laser was bad. New laser did the job. I toke the laser from CDM 12.4, very cheap and pretty easy fix.  

Now to fix Beolink 1000.

Cheers,

Pete (Finland)

I am trying to repair a 9300 linear cd, withe same board pictured in this thread. I have changed the laser assembly and am having some success but the current behaviour is a bit puzzling. I have been able to play a disc but only twice, the rest of the time the laser reads the disc for a couple of seconds and then stops. Once the disc is playing I have been able to skip through tracks, but once stopped it goes back to the erratic behaviour and is unable to read the toc.

I am about to change the 6 large caps on the servo board, should I consider changing the tantalum caps on the other side? What considerations should I have when choosing replacements as far as quality is concerned?

I have two more pics which I think show damage on the board which may be relevant, one is what looks like damage next to a cap, and on the other side of the board the TDA7073AT on the right is loosing the print, is this damage from heat?

Heres the chip one.

Just replace these 6 SMD caps, that's all. Dont worry about the tantalum caps, they will have no problem.

Martin

Here's one which I did, with regular leaded capacitors instead of SMD replacements.

I use Panasonic EB, Nichicon HE, and the blue one is a Vishay BC 150RMI.

All are 105 degree caps for extra-long life, and you can use any or all of these on the PCB for guaranteed operation.

If you insist on using SMD caps as replacements, the Panasonic FK are quite suitable.

Menahem

Thanks for that. I will use 105 degree and I'm not planning on SMD caps. Incidentally I can't see any pic with your post, would be very interested in seeing the finished result.

Do you think I'm on the right track as far as solving the problem is concerned, or could I have other problem areas to look at?

I managed to recap the servo board, which I found easy thanks to the tip on removing the original smd caps (twist them off). Sadly this did not fix the problem and I now suspect the motor (apparently these were prone to failure). Anyone have a european or UK source for these?