You may want to be careful splicing cables for B&O speakers.  At least in my case I've found that deviating from "certified" MKIII Powerlink cable is a recipe for introducing hum etc.  The newer Ice powered models seemed to be more susceptible.  I had to replace some cabling that I had professionally installed by B&O that caused some problems.  The best solution for me was replacing the wiring with off the shelf B&O cables ($$$) and simply spooling the excess length.  The PowerLink cables are extremely thin and splicing or mimicking the braiding/threading would seem to be difficult.  

   I would be interested to see if others have had success with custom cables.  My guess is that you would have to deal with larger gauge than standard Powerlink to get stable power and signal 

Hi Michael,
I appreciate your comment and do agree. But I don't want to splice. I want to use two 8-pin DIN B&O wall plates (number 7210473) and run a cable similar to the $$$ B&O cable between them. My Beolabs 8000 then connect to the wall plate using short regular B&0 cables.

Yes, exactly. However you should be aware that two separately shielded leads are required for left and right audio to avoid crosstalk between the channels. Thus 3-conductors + shield is not exactly what you will need!

The exakt dimension of the wires doesn´t matter so much IMO. You should use a cable that is suited to be used with LF signals (audio frequency range). The exact wire dimensions are more relevant with high frequency as used by e.g. GBit ethernet cables. Generally speaking a thicker cable will have less impedance and will lead to fewer signal degradation than a thinner cable.

Btw. thanks for clearing the exact meaning of "AWG"!