That's awesome! Nothing like some good 'ol DIY work! I'm happy that you've finally completed these. Remember that the driver suspensions need to break-in, and that the bass is much stronger and improved when placed on stands. Let me know if you need any dimensions for the stands, and I'll be happy to take some measurements!

Jon

I kind of knew you would do it in the end :) Well done!!!

Now get those speakers on stands ASAP as has been mentioned above hopfully they will meet your expectations?!

Let us know how things go...

Olly.

Jon wrote:

Let me know if you need any dimensions for the stands, and I'll be happy to take some measurements!

Jon

This is actually a good point raised by Jon.

I sold some with stands & the buyer attempted to lower them onto a bespoke arrangement & the sound suffered as a consequence. I didn't hear them myself (they went overseas) so cannot really comment much further as to how big a difference it made. They were placed back on the original stands pretty pronto by all accounts.

Chris.

I don't have the ports blocked, I made temporary "feet" out of 4X4 blocks that the enclosures are just sitting on.  They are standing about 4" off the floor.  I found some pics of the original stands and just guessed at the dimensions, I think they are really close though.  I gave the dimensions to my friend who is welding them for me, I believe I have the back piece at 93°.  As far as aluminum not being strong enough...all the corners are mitered and welded on all 4 seams, it is also a thick walled square tubing, I am sure it will be plenty strong.  Here is one of the bases...

link

Well, just remember too, that the speakers MUST be tilted back in order to achieve their full potential. The whole "transient perfect" design depends on the acoustic centers of the drivers being lined up with regard to your ear. If your speakers are perfectly upright and only 4" off the floor, you'll be getting a very irregular response because of the poor vertical polar response of this design.

You need to get them further off the floor, and tilted back quite a bit to sound right. Do you have the user's manual for the MS's? It explains how to optimize their placement. Also, remember that B&O did not compensate for the baffle step in response, so they need to be up against the wall for reinforcement in the lower frequencies.

Jon

Thanks for the tips.

No, I don't have the manual but would love one.  I think once the stands are complete they will be about 8" off the floor (I hope that is high enough, I tried to guess the dimensions just by looking at pictures of the original stands).  I will also push the speakers back against my wall, I have them about 10" from it currently.  How far back should these tilt?  Farther than 93°?  Should they be toed in at all or parallel to the back wall?  Should you be sitting in an equilateral triangle with them or farther back than that?

93 degrees is OK, and 7.5" of the floor. so 8" will do. Your speaker is 34 cm deep, IMO your foot should be 36 cm deep to kompensate for inclinacion. I see Very good welding on the frame its going to be very nice

The original stands are actually mild steel box section & painted silver (all of these S/M stands are the same). I'm sure aluminium will do the job though if it is of a decent gauge.

Chris.

I just found some original stands that are near me.  However, they are called S-75 stands, are these the same ones used in the MS150's?

Thanks

The S75 only weights 11 Kg and the MS 150, 30 Kg so its probably not the same, the correct stand for MS 150 is 6017.

The upright for S75 is welded to the foot frame, for MS 150 its fixed with a screw.