π Yes, you are absolutely right, but in this case I should scrap the whole thing, what I dont like to do. Aim is just a make it usefull.
What Are You Working On Now
Hi, I was working on imprving my BeoLab 8000 frets. I used 'Akustikstoff' and double sided thin polyester HPX 'Ultra Mount tape'. The Akustikstoff fabric for me works much nicer than the 60 denier tights I used before (less stretch) and I am pleased with the result that has a bit more texture. Further the LEDs are a bit better visible. The tape is extremely sticky. I used it on the outside and the inside of the sidesSome photographs below.
Also did my BeoLab 6000s that were a bit easier :-).
Regards, Johan Login to view image
Location: Netherlands
My B&O Icons:
Hi Johan,
Good job! Do you have any experience in cleaning dirt spots on the fabric (BeoLab 6000/8000 speakers) ? I have a pair with white fabric and I want to remove the dirt, but I'm looking for ideas how to do it best.
Hi, thanks!
I have no experience with cleaning (white) frets, mine were so bad they needed to be replaced. But I do remember threads like this one https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/p/46169/332869.aspx#332869 where the frets were washed. With these large frets this probably will be probably best done in the bathtub :-).
Good luck! Let us know what you will do. If things go really wrong you can always recloth.
Regards,
Johan
Location: Netherlands
My B&O Icons:
Well, this is confusing.
While reading this https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/p/46214/332959.aspx#332959
I did dig out one of those mechanisms and do some measuring. Beocenter control feeds 3,7v 38mA under load to motor and that does not change when motor is oiled and cleaned like gear wheels. But when I did feed 4,5v from outside supply to test meanings, it had no problem to play and wind.
Now confusing part is that after that test it did work with out problems with it's own supply too. Nothing has changed on beocenters power feed.
EDIT: Back to problematic π
I had a delivery today π


Yes, I know they are white - nothing a bit of dye can't fix. The keypad is still really a prototype as all my home prints break the retaining tabs almost instantly when test fitting, they just don't have the flexure required out of my Ender3. This seems much more promising.
The tuner board is basically be done, as I have tested fit extensively, albeit printed as two parts and glued together - not a long term proposition, but fine for prototyping. So this should be 100% fully functional. If anyone wants one, let me know.
Login to view imagePossibly bad idea for long term usage but it gives me change to make adjustmenst until I get the real thing.
I just fixed a second LC2 light dimmer with the
IsnΒ΄t that beautifull? And it works like a clockw... like a Beogram. Thankyou to link for perfect pulley.
I have just been fixing the two-way function in my mint BL5000 - one that I have kept safely in a box for quite some time!
I used Leslie's excellent notes here: link
and MartinM's photos from the old forum here: link
To be honest my soldering isn't the best - shaky hands and no confidence whatsoever! It was made more tricky because the screen is superglued in place (one of my earlier fixes) hence I had to prise the upper PCB upwards slightly, disconnect the lower PCB's ribbon connecter and then fold the top board over and back on itself - a high-risk procedure knowing how fragile the screen connectors can be!
I used just Tantalum capacitors - the 22uF nearest the screen was slightly too large but I just managed to squeeze it in.
I was amazed to see the following results - I am very pleased indeed: (Many thanks to Leslie (if he still visits) and MartinM.)
Location: Warwickshire, UK
My B&O Icons:
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