I just ordered two of 

Got the

linkJust received these in the post - sold as 'for parts or not working' on eBay.

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The left one had lots of battery corrosion (leaking batteries included in the sale - strange when it adds to the weight hence the postage costs extra!), but I did a quick clean, stuck some fresh AAAs in and it partially functions.  The display is 'fully lit', so that clearly needs a fix; and neither the 'Yellow' nor 'Radio' buttons work - a strange mix of faults!  I've got lots of spare bits so I'm pretty confident that I'll get it up and running fully.

The right one is of course the elusive 'V.AUX' version - that's what attracted me to bid.  The good news is that it works perfectly (once I'd replaced the dead batteries).

So a little cleaning/repairing project for the weekend … 🙂

BeoIce wrote:

Got the link yesterday and changed one today. I can confirm that they are excactly the same size B&O used 20 or more years ago. Only the manufacturer is different. Original = Renata, new = Varta

Now one of the two LC1 is working 100% again.

Will try the other later.

Forgot to say that the second LC1 is working 100% after battery change too.

Just fixed a Beo4 by fitting a new dome foil - good to have a nice positive feel to the buttons now!

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I was kinda able to repair my BeoTime alarm clock (which had gone silent)!

The service manual is on Beoworld's manuals section. You will need it, as disassembly is not trivial. It's also the worst part as tha parts are small, fiddly and even the manual's instructions are not always very clear on how you'll need to push/pull/slide things around.

Once I got the main assembly out from the case, the fault was clear: a very thin speaker cable that runs thrue the spring-loaded alarm on/off -thingy, had broken itself on the part where it flexes. The speaker is located at the end of the sliding part.

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The original cable is only 1mm in diameter shielded wire. It goes from the Audio+ and Audio- points on the main PCB to the speaker at the end of the unit. The small surface-mount SW1 on the top of the PCB is for detecting if the alarm button is pressed in. It might do with a small spray of contact cleaner, while you are there.

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I couldn't find a good replacement, so I just jammed a two-wire solution to the place of the old cable. It kinda fits (I'll get back to this later...), and I just wanted to try if this would work. This is the sliding part that goes inside a square tunnel, so the yellow wire should stay in place, even if it's not all the way held by the small clips at the center.

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This is how the cable goes inside the unit. The bent is where the cable gets stressed everytime the alarm on/off button is slided. In the picture above the buttons is pressed in (ie. alarm off position).

End results; the alarm sound does work again! However, as the cable is just a bit too thick, the alarm on/off button does not slide as well as it should, it needs a bit of a pull to come out completely. Even with this little problem, I really like to have the BeoTime waking me up again 🙂 If I can find a better cable, I might get there again and try it again.

Regarding the disassembly; the manual states that one should pull off the "contact folio" (small flex-PCB with the buttons on the "joystick") and replace it. I don't really see why, as I was able to carefully pull it out without damage and fit it back. And the buttons still work just fine.

^ A great write up thanks Lausvi - I've bookmarked it for when mine goes wrong! 🙂

Capasitors DO get old. Here is my proof. BM1900-2 with one quiet channel on radio, reason C301.

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Hi everyone

I have a couple of these LC's laying around in a box and will give a try

I post here because I see them on the bay and they look like the correct size...

I'm going through a Beomaster 2000 and getting it fixed up.  It is actually working ok, well what I have tested, but the plastic holding the tuner wheels is broken.  I'm 2 days into measuring and drawing, and have printed a prototype to check dimensions of holes etc.  Good thing as the most broken and hard to measure part was out by about 2mm and the screw slots could do with an extra .5mm.  I want to try and beef it up a little too, as the posts are obvious stress points.

Pretty sure some capacitors will need replacing, but for the moment this is the biggest problem.  I have scanned the service manual with OCR with the idea I could get a list of all the capacitors (all parts really) into a single, easily viewable format, to make bulk ordering replacements easier.  A bit of work in progress, looking forward to getting this board built and on to the next step.