lausvi wrote:

I have at least one LC1 more which is not working (just tried, and it did not work by touch or remote) so I'll see if I can revive that one too. I'll need to order more lithium batteries first...

Ok, I managed to revive two out of three LC1s that I have!

It seems that after the battery has been replaced, the unit will not react until after about half a minute after being connected to mains. I guess it does some sort of reset sequence. After that it will work straight away after plugging in.

The last one had a bit of oxidation in the shielding and the battery was completely dead. It tried to fiddle with it for some time but it didn't start working. It might have some other fault. I did not take this fully apart as I wanted to see first if simply the battery replacement would have done the trick. Needs more work, that will be a job for another day - too tired now!

Interestingly enough, the first of my units was Type 2111 (DK version per the service manual), the two others are 2119 (S, Sweden?). First one uses 1.25A fuse while the two others use 1.0A.

I also replaced the Rifa mains filter capacitor in my SN17 power supply.

Yesterday I was re-watching some of the great link videos (if you haven't seen them, do watch, highly educative and entertaining) on YouTube and came across , where Dave repaired the LCD screen of a Fluke Scopemeter. I had seen that before, and immediately had thought about my Beolink 5000, the remote that very often has the identical fault (missing lines or segments), just like mine:

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Mine was in a rather sorry state so I decided to have a go at it and see if it could be revived. Not much to lose anyway!

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I took the remote apart and started working on the flatflex connecting the PCB and the LCD together. Very thin and easy to damage.

Like Dave (see around 20:00 on the video) I used a hot air station and a rubber eraser: I heated the part of the flat flex that attaches to the glass and pushed it down with the eraser. Kept sweeping over the whole length for some minutes. Then I did the same to the PCB connection, as I had no idea which end was the culprit. Had to desolder that big metal shield first.

It was a bit difficult to test the remote without assembling it (which is a pain as the PCB and the LCD has to be turned around very carefully, while at the same time connecting another flex between the two PCBs!) between attempts but I found out that the RETURN button on the rear side (up on the picture above) could be used to trigger the remote to show text. So the setup in the above picture was pretty good.

It took a couple of attempts, but slowly I was getting less and less missing lines and finally the display was restored:

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As Dave mentions in the video, the repair might not be permanent and I think I already saw one line flicker on my LCD. Anyway, it's currently much more usable than before!

Unfortunately this unit has several other glitches; the battery holder is damaged due to earlier leak and it's also affecting the third mounting screw that holds down the top plate. Also the display has a big crack on the right-hand side edge. I noticed some small electrolytic caps on the board that are probably bad by now and indeed the two-way IR range seems to be pretty limited.

I have a spares unit (with totally smashed screen) which I might dig up and swap parts with.

It's a tricky remote to open so I can't recommend this repair to anyone uneasy with delicate parts, especially the LCD and its flat flex.

Super job!

It was fine until the next morning! 😎 By then it was again missing couple of lines (but it was still better than before I started).

I have now aquired another unit. It was externally very nice, but again the display was missing lines and the 2-way IR didn't work at all. There were several (thrue-hole) caps that looked pretty bad but replacing those did not help. I swapped boards between the two units and I have now one that looks good and works Ok-but-not-great (pretty bad IR range) and the display still needs to be re-worked (not sure if I will bother, it was almost too frustrating to put it together!).

Great job. I have a number of these Beolinks, all have dead pixels. I've disassembled one and removed the metal shield. However, in this case the issue appears to be in the crease of the ribbon cable ie. if the cable is bent or straightened, I can get pixels to show up or disappear. Applying pressure on where the cable is glued to the pcb or lcd makes no difference. Applying pressure to the bend in the cable does.

Has anyone found a suitable replacement for the ribbon cable or some other way of restoring the function of the display?

I bought myself a boxed "non-tested, sold as-is" LC2 dimmer. I have always thought these things look superbly cool. It has quite a resemblance to a certain HAL 9000 series computer (which I think is a plus, being a 2001-fan!)

While externally pretty clean, sadly it doesn't work. I can't get any reaction on it, not by remote nor by touch.

I keep reading on old threads that there are some known troublemaker capacitors, I'll have to see about that. I only had a quick look inside, but it looks prestine. Main fuse was Ok.

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It seems I have a working LC2 now 🤩

Before today I had tried the following:

- checked the mains fuse: it was Ok

- checked two electrolytic caps, ofter mentioned in earlier threads: both were fine

- measured the main +5V supply: nothing! Definetively something wrong at the power side of things.

Today I continued with a printed schematics (thanks Beoworld, the schematics and parts layout were scanned in a very good quality). I started following the mains input and found that resistor R3 (5.6ohm, 10% 0.4W) was open circuit. Externally it looked absolutely fine, ie. not charred or blown. All near-by parts were Ok so I simply replaced R3. I wasn't having too high hopes, but as I nervously plugged in the LC2, my test-lamp lit up (LC2 can be programmed to turn on when mains power is connected so this was a good sign). Ok, already an improvement! No idea why it had failed, perhaps a spike at mains voltage or something?

I tested the IR, and it worked: I was able to turn the lamp on and off. But the touch-sensing didn't work. At this point I wasted some time troubleshooting this as I had presumed that the dome sensor worked thrue the pad on the IR receiver board (it looks like it would touch the inside of the dome) and I kept poking it and wondering why it didn't work! In truth the sense is thrue a conducting rubber pin on the corned of the main PCB. It touches and makes contact to the bottom of the domed top (which I had not put back yet). I finally figured this out when I started wondering why the schematics showed the touch sensor as a separate section from the IR board...

Touching this time the correct part showed that the touch sensor worked after all. After cleaning things up, I was finally ready to assemble the unit and gave it a final test: everything works! I have now been dimming it up and down and it seems to be working nicely.

Having now worked on both LC1 and LC2, I must say I really like the LC2, the design is good looking and it's much easier to connect than the LC1. Also I think externally the LC2 looks stunning. Internally it only has three screws holding parts in.

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Howdy, wondered if you might be able to help? I just picked up a pair lovely old P30's but have found one of the tweeters to be blown out (when I turn the bass up to a modest volume one of the speakers makes a rather unpleasant raspy vibrating sound). Any suggestions on how best to proceed? Based in UK, currently working to get a Beogram 1500 deck (the newer 80's model without pre-amp_ hooked up to a Pioneer SA-500. So far so good, but this speaker not being A1 has put a bit of spanner in the works. Cheers in advance, Adam :)

New country. New city. New apartment. New workbench. New tools. Same hobby.

Now that I am settled into my new home I have started to replenish my tool box (read: kitchen drawer) and decided to make a quick going through of a tired pair of original, white RL60.2's. I acquired these in the same purchase as my BL5000 and BM5000. At the time I asked the seller to bring a pair of speakers to demo the amp and he made me an offer I couldn't refuse! Plus he didn't want to haul them back home.

In a time where I should be catching up on real work and a million other projects I couldn't resist pulling these apart. A friend of mine here mentioned they really needed some good, cheap speakers and I don't have the room right now to put them to good use. So I am going to re-cap, re-cover, re-paint and re-strap these RL's to get them ready for a new home. I was saving them (behind my couch) for a time when I could set up a pair of BeoCreate units in stereo but this use is much better use, and future for these awesome speakers.

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lausvi wrote:

Gotta love the small logos on the parts 😐

I seriously love finding these little details inside old B&O gear. Nerdy, but true!