Well I thought I had posted a reply last week but apparently I never clicked "post".... The replacement caps and resistors came in the mail yesterday. Today I'll be attempting a rebuild of nearly all components of the crossover (keeping the original inductors). With the wiring diagram I posted earlier, pictures of the old crossovers, and with majority of the original pieces still connected after removal, I did anticipate it not being so mind-boggling (+ here, - there, but + and - here, this goes straight to the driver but magically passes through these resistors). I'm sure most of you out there find most of this quite simple but with a background in medicine, it's a foreign language. The new resistors are a bit larger so the layout of the crossover had to be altered slightly. Pcitures of them completed should go up tonight.

Thanks for everyone's help!

Make sure you change the components with the ones you find on the crossover, the drawing and part list are not always the same as the ones on your crossover.

I used the original crossovers for a parts list but a couple of the resistors were not labeled so I used the schematics for their values. While the components may be different as mentioned, is it possible that the wiring of the crossover and diagram are different? The input from the din connector does not seem to correspond between the two.

andyjsegal wrote:

Well I thought I had posted a reply last week but apparently I never clicked "post".... The replacement caps and resistors came in the mail yesterday. Today I'll be attempting a rebuild of nearly all components of the crossover (keeping the original inductors). With the wiring diagram I posted earlier, pictures of the old crossovers, and with majority of the original pieces still connected after removal, I did anticipate it not being so mind-boggling (+ here, - there, but + and - here, this goes straight to the driver but magically passes through these resistors). I'm sure most of you out there find most of this quite simple but with a background in medicine, it's a foreign language. The new resistors are a bit larger so the layout of the crossover had to be altered slightly. Pcitures of them completed should go up tonight.

Thanks for everyone's help!

Even those of us who are engineers in "real life" find it difficult.  I had to split my M70 crossovers into 2 separate boards!

Whenever you tackle a project like this, take lots of photos and take lots of notes.  Detailing the project here step-by-step on Beoworld can help keep your project on track, both by making a record for yourself, and allowing the experts to offer advice along the way.  Plus, it makes it that much easier for the next guy to tackle the same work.

Check the resistors with an Ohm meter, and stay with the original wiring. and as Rich mentions take pics, post here if you need help. All the experts are following.🙂

On the schematic, the (+in) appears to go through the 2.2 cap first, then the 3.3 resistor. But on my crossover, the (+in) connects first to the resistor, which then connects to the 2.2 cap. Seems backwards and also seems like it could contribute to the resistors overheating, cracking, and burning up.

Seems like most crossovers I can find online have the same order as mine but if there is something I am missing, I would rather correct it now than have another crossover melt down on me in the future.

Are your components the same as in the schematics

And are the connections the same in both crossovers

The only difference in the components is on c1 and c4. Parts list puts them at 50u and 37u respectively. On the crossovers they are 47 and 33. Connections are the same in both crossovers.

The resistor next to the plastic cap is really the only failure point I have found on these. Just making sure that the factory didn't wire them wrong creating a failure point.