Here is the cover after polishing the edges.  It is alot easier to do the edges while the cover is still attached to the block of wood.

These are the two tabs that I cut, ready to be glued to the cover. 

The tabs, glued in place.  I used blue painters tape to make guides to locate the tabs.  The tabs are a attached a bit below center.  this is so I can "hook" the tabs allowing them to be locked onto the 4400 receiver.  I used cyanoacrylate glue (super glue).

Here is where I got so involved that I forgot to take pictures of the next few steps.  Once the tabs were dried, I cut off the ends of the cover.  I then sanded them square and polished the edges.  I shaped the tabs by rounding the upper corner and slotting the bottom to form a hook.  I used a couple of needle files to do the shaping.  Here is the cover after final shaping, before final polishing.

This is a closeup of one of the tabs.

Here is the cover installed on the BM 4400.  The cover hooks on and is very secure, but is easily removed.  the preset slots on my BM 4400 measures 14.1mm, so I wanted something wider than the 14mm of the stock cover.  The cassette case is 16mm wide so it worked fine.  Since I was making this for my use, I wanted to design it how I thought it should have been originally made.  I like how it came out.

Thanks for looking, and for the help with the specs of the original cover.

Kevin

Well done and the pictures are great.

🤒

Great work! Looks very good and the use of a cassette case was really a superb idea!

Nice job! 🤒

Personally I wouldn't bother with the hooks. The tabs on the original cover are straight and it stays on just fine as long as the fit is snug.

I wonder, if B&O had used your hook system if there would be quite so much of a problem these days!

That is pro work - I am very impressed!

Superb thread! Great pictures too. I reckon you could start a business making and selling these. 99% are missing and this looks like a perfect answer. Well done.

tournedos wrote:

Nice job! 🤒

Personally I wouldn't bother with the hooks. The tabs on the original cover are straight and it stays on just fine as long as the fit is snug.

Thanks for the kind remarks! 

After looking at pictures of the original covers, I think relying on a friction fit was the problem all along.  It seems they would eventually get loose, or be so tight as to risk breakage from repetitive removals.  The hooks rely on mechanical fit and can be removed repeatedly without affecting the fit.  Until I saw the pictures of an original cover I assumed they hooked onto the faceplate, and I was quite surprised that they didn't.

Kevin

I think the biggest problem with the original design is that the clips are shaped like forks. The idea probably was to have some tension in them keeping the cover tightly on, but that doesn't have much chance of working with that kind of hard plastic and the material strength. Once you break off one of the four small tabs, there's no way the cover will stay on properly any more.

It apparently wasn't very good quality to begin with either. Mine is clearly warped around the spot where it once was attached to the molding frame.