My Beomaster 6000 quad - AKA the itch that needed scratching...

18 replies

Craig wrote:

Really.......small world, though I'm technically in Kirklevington, just up the spital within the grounds of the Jail ;¬)

The visiting hours are good though! 😁

I wonder if the innards are as dusty - probably!

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Peter wrote:

Craig wrote:

Really.......small world, though I'm technically in Kirklevington, just up the spital within the grounds of the Jail ;¬)

The visiting hours are good though! 😁

I wonder if the innards are as dusty - probably!

Don't know yet whats going on inside, but from what I have been reading it will probably keep me busy for some time......with no hope of parole!

Incidently......why MrRoast?

@Craig - haha, a long story but basically a nickname someone gave me years ago that stuck!

Finally managed to remove all/as-much-as-I-physically-could of the old glue that has been used to glue the brushed steel sheet down. It had expanded (possibly due to moisture over time?) and caused the panel to lift up - not as simple as just glueing it down again sadly! I used a scalpel, vacuum cleaner and lots of patience to hawk out the remnants trying not to either bend the steel too much or damage the surrounding areas.

I sparingly used UHU all purpose power adhesive smears in two thin layers on either side of the contact area - it's UV and ware resistant once cured so this shouldn't happen again!

Getting the panel pressed down evenly in all areas and with sufficient force to allow a flat join was a challenge! I used a few g-clamps and lots of this cereal box card to pack between the clamps ad the steel.

My only accident was that the black plastic retainer (that stops the button from sitting above the flush level of the panel) of the first button along pinged off so had to be re-glued separately afterwards. These buttons naturally sit proud above the surface without the retaining clips so that they spring back to flush after being pressed.

Overall I'm happy with the result (I hadn't cleaned the panel at all so that line on the edge of the stand by button is muck not a shadow!)

This Beomaster 6000 wasn't in the best cosmetic condition to begin with but is a damn site better now!

Lastly for this bit I needed to retouch the black areas between the aluminium frame and the steel buttons - I did this with some Humbrol matt enamel paint and again lots of patience. I still needed thinners and rags to clean up slight mistakes!

For the time being I need to reassemble everything so I can store it away as I need the space. This leaves me with the job of replacing the three missing plastic feet on the bottom!

Location: Nottingham, UK

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This is sterling effort so far.......it's encouraging to see, do you intend to complete the work in the near future? Or will it be stored indefinitely........

Craig

Thanks Craig - more than likely it will go into hibernation for a while. Limited space means that my workbench is also my kitchen table so I can't really leave disassembled hi-fi about unless I wan the wrath of the wife!

Ultimately the skills needed to restore these items are beyond me electronically - although it's a learning experience to disassemble and see what makes them tick under the skin!

Location: Nottingham, UK

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I've restored 11 of these Beomaster 6000 quads in the past few years and I always remove the keypad completely from the alu base. Also remove all the black plastic retainers (they come loose over time anyhow). The advantage of this procedure is that it is a lot easier to straighten the key pad fingers if needed, a lot easier to do the black stripe painting and it gives a "as new" finish. I'm adding a few pictures to support what I just explained. I'm trying to add a few pictures to support what I just explained, but no luck so far.

Thanks for the good advice Alain - this my first 6000 (so far) and very much a discovery process and a result of beovirus! In the future I'd like to get it fully restored from an internal electronics POV but then my Beogram 4000 is ahead in the queue!

Location: Nottingham, UK

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