Hi,

the described 'measurement is correct and just normal:

When the lamp is connected to the output connectors there's nearly a short between 'N' and 'L' by the lamp, so you won't get a readout on your multimeter.

If no lamp connected there's no 'short' between the 'N' and 'L' lines and the high impedance of the multimeter creates the voltage you can see now. The current that's running into the multimeter is so low that nothing will happen to you and your multimeter.

The same is for your small 25 W lamp: The LC2 needs at least 40W to work as designed!

So to test your LC2 you should 'load' it with 40W or more.

Thank you for the info! I use multiple LC2,s with a 25 Watt bulb, without any problems. But to make sure, I changed the lamp with to a 40 Watt one. Regretfully it’s still not working. 

Beolab1 wrote:

I changed the lamp with to a 40 Watt one

What kind of 40 watt bulb?

Test with a incandescent light bulb

Hi Keith,

Thank you for your reply! I used a incandescent 40 Watt bulb. The same type (Philips) that I use with my other LC2’s, ranging from 25 to 40 Watt. I hope I manage to explain this more clearly.

I think the faulty ceiling connection box must have caused the LC2 to break down. The connection box in the ceiling of our living room is wired through, to the outside balcony light. When we switch on the balcony light is does not work, but even when the ceiling lamp inside is switched off, the ceiling lamp stars blinking, until we switch the balcony light of again.

This happens with or without an LC2 connected to the ceiling lamp. This faulty wiring somewhere must have caused fluctuations in the power or something similar, that broke the LC2, yet it did not burn the fuse. The breakdown happened three days after I connected the LC2. It just gave up.

Any suggestions what might be wrong with the LC2?

Any suggestions what might be wrong with the LC2?