Hello Schletti82,
Thank you for getting in touch, welcome news indeed. Would you consider selling the relay spring to me?
Regards, Carl
Thank you to our Sponsors
In need of new Part for Beogram 2000
19 replies
Sure, but I think the shipping costs will be higher than the price for the spring.
i life in Munich (Germany) but of course I will send it to you
Thank you. I’m planning to visit Munich next year but we won’t wait till then (smile). Yes shipping costs can be high but I didn't want to be presumptuous on how much you wanted for the spring, plus I’m not sure what the shipping costs would be to the UK. I’ve noticed most people prefer to discuss these matters directly so would you be happy to do that. If yes then my email is cralt@me.com.
Rgds Carl
Hi all, quick update - unfortunately the spring offered above was from a different deck with different internals.
So I will proceed with trying to make a spring.
If in the meantime an original spring is found and offered then great.
Rgds, Carl
Finally!!!!
Hi All,
Found time this morning to tackle the making of a relay spring.
Took 3 attempts but eventually I was happy with fit.
Fitted spring and tested deck - 'shock horror' I still had the problem where the motor would cut out as soon as the pickup arm lowered onto the record.
I re-adjusted the relay contacts because I discovered the top contact was not making a connection when the service manual said it should, i.e. in relation to the position of the top armature when located in a specific position on the cam.
Tested again and now ALL works perfectly.
I’ve attached a photo of my handy-work. I used 0.2mm gauge wire which is a little less then I believe it should be. The tension it provides seems fine though. Think I'll glue this spring in place but have yet to decide the best place apply glue.
My only remaining issue is the speed of the platter. I’ve set the speed to 30 and centred the fine adjustment knob on the side of the deck. But no matter which way I turn it I cannot get the strobe squares around the edge of the platter to show as standing still. I’ve been using an energy saving bulb so I will try a traditional light bulb - does it matter what the wattage of the bulb is?
I set the position of the conical shaft that the idler wheel makes contact with when I refitted the motor (set in accordance with the service manual), so I don’t really want to start playing with it now, but I may have no choice.
Thank you to all of you who have helped, specifically Martin (Dillen) who identified the relay spring was probably missing and who pointed me toward some photos, and Solderon29 who provided some explanations and kindly sent me a photo of the relay spring on its own, i.e. unattached from the relay.
Regards, Carl
Well done!
"does it matter what the wattage of the bulb is?"
No. But the type of bulb matters. Use a conventional bulb if possible.
Martin
Hi Martin,
Found a conventional bulb (surprised I still had one). Checked platter speed again and was able to adjust to the correct speed via the side wheel.
Many thanks, Carl
Neat job Carl!
I'll know where to come the next time one of these springs fly's past my ear and disappears?
You were lucky with the motor too,usually these need some tlc as the bearings dry out causing low t/t speed.
Load's of threads here of course relating to that,if you need to do it at some stage!
Nick
Hi Nick,
Thank you, yes it was fiddly to do but I'm happy with the end result. Sods law says I will now find the original spring, but it hasn't shown itself yet.
I have plenty of surplus sprung wire which I will keep in case someone here needs any.
I did do the motor bearings for the reasons you give. I was a complete newbie and it was my first job. I was fortunate in receiving lots of help from Martin (Dillen) and others. In fact I took the motor apart twice and feel I could now do it in my sleep lol.
I also added a new belt and LIFT button assembly courtesy of Martin (my belt had stretched and my assembly had broken).
It's been an interesting and enjoyable project, especially being able to overcome problems which at first seemed beyond my capabilities.
It's also been a very time consuming project (learning as you go always is), and quite costly in terms of materials/items needed, but I'm never one to give up - plus the Beogram deserved it! It really is in wonderful condition, cosmetically and now, mechanically.
Thanks again for your help Nick, regards, Carl
Please Log In to Reply
You must be logged in as a BeoWorld member to post replies to forum threads.
or
Join BeoWorld
Register to access the forums, reference material, and exclusive member benefits — including our monthly prize draw.
Become a Member