CD 5500 CD tray and read issue - done the regular culprits

14 replies
F(
Offline
fleccky (archived2)
Bronze
Posted September 27, 2014 at 16:45 GMT
#2201067

Hi all,

So I've had a CD 5500 I picked up which wouldn't read cd's. Only after investigating the forum and the "easy fix" of the 33/47 uF blue Philips/BC/Vishay cap did I part with my money...

So, replaced it. No joy.
Replaced the 4 other electrolytics on the servo board, still no joy.

So here I am, asking your expertise to identify my problem!

Basically, after all the work done the following happens:

1. Press open. Tray opening is slow to respond (the belt tensions then releases with a full forward jerk (ie, replace belt)).

2. machine turns off once open

OK, so place CD manually in the tray & close:

1. Press play. "Track" lights up.

2. Hear the laser assembly smack forward against the white CD2 assembly plastic, motor attempts to spin cd (feeble), then CDP turns off.

Apart from replacing the caps I have made no other adjustments (apart from giving the three PSU regulators some soldier attention)...

Any knowledgeable people out there to give me some new pointers? If not, I'm back on the market for a working CD5500...

Thanks, Sam

C(
Offline
chartz (archived2)
Bronze
Posted September 27, 2014 at 17:09 GMT
#2201068

Check the PSU caps as well. The big alu Philips usually lasts forever, but the other ones are prone to failure. You might get low voltages.

F(
Offline
fleccky (archived2)
Bronze
Posted September 27, 2014 at 17:33 GMT
#2201069

Thanks.

I'd hoped that wasn't the answer...

But hey ho, it's off to the components shop I go (again).

Nothing is ever easy!!!

C(
Offline
chartz (archived2)
Bronze
Posted October 2, 2014 at 07:25 GMT
#2201070

No news is good news I guess, eh?

F(
Offline
fleccky (archived2)
Bronze
Posted October 4, 2014 at 15:35 GMT
#2201071

Sorry, been away on training all week.
Getting repeatedly dunked underwater in a capsized helicopter takes it out of you a bit!

So, your advice would be to leave the two silver ones C13 and C18?

Otherwise I'll replace those around the regulators and C3/C6, the two other larger ones (for now).

 

F(
Offline
fleccky (archived2)
Bronze
Posted October 12, 2014 at 10:48 GMT
#2201072

OK,

So replaced every single electrolytic on the board apart from the two big silver ones as mentioned previously, and those 100uF around the output op-amps (figured that when it works I'd find something nice). Everything else is new.

Now the drawer opens fine - small victories

When putting in a CD it does a feeble spin, I hear the laser assembly hit the CDM2 white plastic, then it goes for a proper spin for about a second and then turns itself off.

Any ideas where to start?

I do have a replacement for C18 (the silver 2200uF) reserved for another project, but is it worth a swap? Or is something else awry?

Thanks, Sam

 

C(
Offline
chartz (archived2)
Bronze
Posted October 12, 2014 at 13:03 GMT
#2201073

I take it that you used a real CD...

Have you also replaced the servo board electrolytics?

F(
Offline
fleccky (archived2)
Bronze
Posted October 12, 2014 at 13:45 GMT
#2201074

Hi Jacques,

Yes, I used a number of different 'real' CD's just to check...

All electrolytic caps on the servo board are replaced also.

I have read a post saying that  WIMA 1.5uF should replace C2159 (470uF on mine), but I have not done this. I trust the original engineering.

Are there any common points to start with measuring voltages etc or other checks?

C(
Offline
chartz (archived2)
Bronze
Posted October 13, 2014 at 10:04 GMT
#2201075

Check your solders on the servo board (and the main board, the tracks are fragile and easily broken), the wired connections. Any pictures of what you did are more than welcome. A video perhaps.

I did the Wima mod, and it just made the transport a bit quieter!

 

DI
Offline
Dillen
BronzeModeratorFounder
Posted October 13, 2014 at 11:50 GMT
#2201076

Sam wrote:

I have read a post saying that  WIMA 1.5uF should replace C2159 (470uF on mine), but I have not done this. I trust the original engineering.

470uF ?  - where ?
The 1,5uF in question replaces a 1,5uF bipolar electrolytic cap on the servo board.

Martin

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