Søren Mexico wrote:

Here BM 4000 and here M70s I will try to get the pics activated on the BM 4000 thread

That would be perfect! I already looked on those pages, but it was difficult to understand without pictures...

RunieNL wrote:

I'm not sure if I will keep them... I don't own any LP and the M70's are just a little bit too big... Ofcourse I will compare them to the S75's.

If you dont want to keep the M70s, dont listen to them, because then you will want to keep them

Søren is right. No knock against the S75's (I own a pair of those as well) but I think the M70's are better.

The Beomaster 4000 is a nice receiver (I have one that I restored a few years ago). I am afraid the humming sound you hear is likely from a typical problem of those units. Their transformer gets noisy with age and I don't believe you can fix it. I have a spare Beomaster 4000 that I never restored because the transformer is just too noisy to make it worth restoring. Since then however I have replaced a bad transformer in a B&O turntable with a new, toroid type transformer. I wonder if a toroid could be ordered that meets the BM4000 power requirements and fits the space. The only other option I know of is to find a donor Beomaster to steal a working transformer from.

-sonavor

RunieNL wrote:

I don't own any LP

Yet.

Look, I hate to douse your spirits because you seem very excited to have purchased the BM4000.  But.....the M70s and BG4002 are both superior to the BM4000 (in my humble opinion, of course).

By the way, my BM4000 is dead quiet.  Always has been (knock on wood).

Ok, it has been a while since I've been writing something on the workbench-forum. But that doesn't mean I haven't been busy!

I first thought that I should choose two sides which looked the best when placed in my living room. When I just put all my effort in cleaning just those two sides, it wouldn't be that much work. So I started sanding those two sides with grain 120, to really clean them as deep as I dared. After that, there was some paint gone, but still a lot remaining... There was a big difference between the two speakersA lot more paint on one of them. Maybe I cleaned one a lot better than the other one? Maybe one was painted better, or because of sunlight influences?

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As you can see, still a lot of small pieces of paint remaining...

I tried a lot of things to remove the remaining pieces of paint. Staining them with the Old English and a small paintbrush made the wood look very spotty. And it seems that only the wood was getting stained and it didn't effect the paint too much. So I sanded that side clean again.

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I also tried staining the whole side with Old English, but it made the wood too dark for my liking, and again, it was staining the wood, not the paint...

So that's when I started using the toothpick-idea Rich suggested, but not with a toothpick but with a sort of steel needle. We call it a punaise or duimspijker, translated it's a  thumbnail, is that an English word? It gave enough grip and with the sharp point I could remove the paint quite well. It just was very, very time consuming... The frustating thing was, that every time I thought I finished and I sanded and cleaned the wood, a lot of paint was showing again...

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I found out that putting the point of the thumbnail on the edge of a piece of paint, and then "whipping" it out, was the best way. Then light brushing with the softest messing brush I had. Finaly I did all the sides of the speakers that way, so they look nice from every side now!
There are only very small pieces of paint showing, but only when you look very close.

They now are already oiled with the Danish oil. After one layer of oil I applied some Old English to hopefully darken the remaining pieces of paint. Then a layer of oil again and some more Old English. A bit of sanding, some more Old English and a final layer of Danish oil.

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I'm happy with the result!

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They're allowed in the living room again, after months in the garage! (it's a bit dark in the picture, sorry)

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Here they are on top of the M70's which are my current speakers until the S75's are recapped.

Coming to that:

I had a look inside the speakers.

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What to do now? As Martin (Dillen) told me in a PM when ordering a capacitor-kit, for replacing the capacitors I need to cut the old cap out leaving small stumps of leads to indicate where it sat. Then solder the new cap in place. But how do I get the crossover out? Just cut all the wires? And when installing it again, solder them to eachother again? There seems to be quite some tension on the yellow and orange wire. Is it no problem when I replace the crossover upside down?

I normally desolder the wires at the speakers, at the crossover there is a lot coming together,  mark where the wires go, on the crossover do the caps on by one or carefully mark where they go, cut off the old ones no need to desolder

I forgot Top job with the wood

Søren Mexico wrote:

I forgot Top job with the wood

For sure.  When I recap I almost always replace all the wiring as well.  First I make a drawing, then take a lot of photos.  You absolutely must check that the polarity of the drivers is marked.  If not, make your own markings.  Then I remove everything, snipping wires where needed, then do the recap.  Solder the new wiring to the crossover, put the crossover back in, pull the wiring out of each driver hole, then solder to drivers, then refasten drivers.  Simple, really, but definitely time consuming.

With something like the S40, you could just take out the woofer, snip out the old caps, then put new caps in without taking anything out (or any desoldering).

Really depends on how complex the system is.

I started unsoldering and taking out the drivers and the crossover of one of the S75's, but encountered some small problems:

The rubber surrounding of the woofer is a little bit loose at one point. With what kind of glue do I need to reattatch this?
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With trying to unsolder the connections to the drivers, with one driver a connection started to melt! Probably my solderingmachine produces to much heat. So I decided to cut the wires anyway. I don't think this melting would cause any harm, can it?
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With the crossover removed, I noticed that the three small magnets in a coil could easily come loose as if they're about to fall out. Ofcourse, I've been turning the speakers a lot in the past months, and it didn't happen, but I don't want it to happen in the future either. With what can I reattached those magnets? What is that stuff they used originally, anyway? I don't recognize it.

Thanks! René