I finally found Danish oil! Based on tung oil though, not linseed oil. However, still no luck with an oil based wood stain. I will have to order the "old english" online and wait for the delivery... Let's hope that the package from Martin/Dillen will arrive soon to keep me busy 😉 

RunieNL wrote:

I finally found Danish oil! Based on tung oil though, not linseed oil. However, still no luck with an oil based wood stain. I will have to order the "old english" online and wait for the delivery... Let's hope that the package from Martin/Dillen will arrive soon to keep me busy 😉 

I found this about Tung oil. Tung oil based Danish oil may have some driers in it, but read the user manual

Boiled linseed oil has driers added to make it dry much faster than raw linseed oil, which can take weeks or months to dry. The drying is adequate only when the excess is wiped off after each application. Tung oil doesn’t contain driers. It takes two or three days to dry adequately in a warm room when all the excess is wiped off.

It usually takes four or five coats of tung oil, sanded after each, to get a nice even satin sheen. The surface will be rough and spotty until this point. That’s why you have to sand.

Sanding is unnecessary with boiled linseed oil, except after the first coat. Then one or two more coats with a day between each will produce an even satin sheen.

The same number of coats of tung oil will be more water resistant than boiled linseed oil. In fact, boiled linseed oil won’t be water resistant at all. The surface will dull after short contact with water.

I can see that he oil contains white spirit and methanol, are those the driers they are talking about? I could choose between a "normal" danish oil, and from a different brand "improved" danish oil. Both based on tung oil. The difference was that the "improved" danish oil contains more oil and less additives (driers?). I chose the "normal" danish oil. From what I can read I may accidentaly have made the right choice...

This is the product I bought: http://www.rustins.eu/Details.asp?ProductID=743

Do you think it still needs sanding after oiling? Won't I sand off the old english covering up the paint? (at least I hope it will cover up the paint...)

RunieNL wrote:

Do you think it still needs sanding after oiling? Won't I sand off the old english covering up the paint? (at least I hope it will cover up the paint...)

After the treatment with Old English I apply the oil and let dry for 24 hours, I then sand light with 200-240 grain and apply oil a second time, let it dry again and polish it with a lint free rag. Old English is very thin and will penetrate into the wood/paint. I had to apply Old English some 5 times before I got it to my liking. I have never tried Danish oil, only Boiled linseed oil

And suddenly I'm the proud owner of, not only a pair of beovox S75's, but also a pair of beovox M70's, a beocord 1101, a beogram 4002 and (the reason why I did this purchase) a beomaster 4000!

it seems that everything is working, except the beomaster. Because I'm now waiting for my recap-kit ordered from Dillen for my S75's, and a bottle of old english that is shipped from America, I'm trying to open up the beomaster now... The bottom looks very clean, but I'm having trouble opening the top. Probably I'm too carefull... I noticed a light humming sound, but no vibration when turned on. No lights. Let's hope that it will start working after a recap job...

Ofcourse this should be in a new thread about the Beomaster, but just a couple of pictures can't harm anyone, can they...

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From the outside it really looks fantastic. only very light scrapings in the top veneer.

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It really is a BM4000...

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It almost looks new on the bottom inside!

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On the top it's the same, almost like new!

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Except for those capacitors... Hopefully they are the problem

Here BM 4000 and here M70s I will try to get the pics activated on the BM 4000 thread

I'm not sure if I will keep them... I don't own any LP and the M70's are just a little bit too big... Ofcourse I will compare them to the S75's.