No, the Danish Oil (or Boiled Linseed Oil) is an oil finish. You wipe it on and wipe it dry. To remove the paint remnants I think you will need to do some sanding (by hand...no power sander) and clean with some acetone.

-sonavor

I've taken a picture of the veneer, before doing another treatment with the paint remover, sanding with sandingpaper 120 and cleaning with aceton. After that I took a picture of that same spot for comparison.

This is the before picture:
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This the after picture:
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You can see that a little of the paint disappeared, but there's still some left behind in the grain...

By the way, what kind of wood is this? Is it teak?

According to your other pics I will say Rose wood the teak has a finer and straighter grain, you have done a very good job with the cleaning, try with acetone to get the last paint out, then try to find a darkening stain like Old English for dark woods, use a small brush and apply it on the paint rests, let soak for 5-10 min. wipe off excess, do this 4 to 5 times. I had some very damaged Rose wood and with Old English I got it nearly perfect. If it works, when you have the match, let dry a couple of hours and then sand lightly again and treat it all with linseed or Danish oil, you have a very dry wood now so let the oil really soak in, I normally apply a lot and let it soak for at least 1 hour when the wood is very dry .

And dont forget the pics, we are checking on you.😁

Three thoughts.

1.  Why not try to get into those grooves with a wooden toothpick (after applying acetone)?

2.  At some point you're going to have to just stop and be satisfied.  We are our own worst critics, and some of us often spend far too long trying to get that last fraction of a percent toward perfection.

3.  From your listening position, you're not even going to notice what's left in those grooves.

From your earlier picture of the bottom of the speaker cabinet you can tell that it is the rosewood finish. Once you get a little more sanding, cleaning and picking of the remaining paint out of the way the suggested use of Old English to restore some color should do the trick. You can experiment with the bottom of the cabinet to get a feel for how the process works (although it appears the color on the bottom is still pretty good). You're making great progress and I think this type of restoration is a lot slower and requires more patience than the electronic part of the audio restorations.

-sonavor

You could also try rubbing with wire wool (again after applying acetone).

If you do this, I would choose brass wool rather than steel, as any tiny pieces that break off and end up embedded in the grain will not then create rust spots.

Kind Regards,

Martin.

Ok, here's the plan:

I'll peel off the largest pieces of remaing paint with a needle ( I allready did that, it works but works terribly slow, so doing all of the paint that way will take way too long) after that, some more cleaning with acetone and different kinds of material (I was using the steel wool, but after reading Martins post, maybe thats not a good idea...) I have two brass brushes, One quite soft, the other a bit harder. Ofcourse the harder brush cleans better and deeper and it can take paint out, but it takes a lot of wood away too and makes the grain very deep and open, so I'm very carefull using that one. Then I will use the "old english" (what could this be called here in Belgium, are there other names for it? I will see if I can find it in the store later today) 

Ofcourse I'll post the pictures taken during the process!

Hi,

using needle to remove white paint from pores is good idea, but will be very time consuming. You will be able to remove only bigger residua, but it can help a lot. 

Curious about pictures.

Any ideas about other names for "old english" and "danish oil"? I've been to one store sofar and couldn't find any...