Rudy, took a look more on this pic. The "tube" around the coil has a bend at the top, and as these drivers has a long pull, this may give "scrathing" when having a lot of bass or plaing very loud. I know its bad news, but try it out before you start taking of the dust cap again. And dont kill the messenger 😁

Rudy, on your shimming pic I see that the "tube" around the coil has a bend in it, as these drivers has a long pull, this may give distortion or "scraping" when adding a lot of bass or plaing very loud, test it before taking of the dust cap again. And dont kill the messenger 😂

Søren Mexico wrote:

About the lacquer on the mid range, there are some special brands out there, but I dont know anything about it, so maybe another member could give some advice about it.

I don't think it needs anything. Certainly not paint! That would increase the mass of the cone a lot and it wouldn't sound the same any more (and so will a handful of dog hair 😂 ).

The special coatings are usually there to stiffen the cone or to repair/prevent rips. It think Visaton is one brand, perhaps you can find the marketing material somewhere and decide if it would be useful in this case.

The dent in the tube only goes about 3 mm down....do you think this is really a problem? Seems really hard "party operation" would be necessary to cause scraping...I tried to bend the dent back out, but the material is quite elastic, and I was afraid I might distort the overall shape of the tube...

HarryPierce wrote:

The dent in the tube only goes about 3 mm down....do you think this is really a problem? Seems really hard "party operation" would be necessary to cause scraping...I tried to bend the dent back out, but the material is quite elastic, and I was afraid I might distort the overall shape of the tube...

 

As it only goes 3 Mm down I dont think it will be a problem.

BTW can you post the caps and resistor values from your crossover, I think they are diff. from mine.

I have left to right, 5 uF, 25 uF, 75 uF, 12 uF, 75 uF

Are you sure you read the second one correctly? Mine looked exactly like yours. From left to right (on your pic) I had 5uF, 12uF (25V), 75 uF, 25uF, 75uF. I replaced them with 4.7, 12, 68+6.8, 22+2.2, 68+6.8.

Sorry Rudy, took it from memory, at first I had it right, but then I thought it was wrong and changed it.

So you have the same type as I, the 6233. did you test them yet or are you waiting until you get the terminals in place.

mine say Type 6263 on the back...I am waiting for the terminals...more after the weekend🙂

Just wanted to give a quick update on my progress: I put everything back together. Here a shot of the installed recapped crossover with terminals in the back. I put the terminal in a location covering the original cable feedthrough so I would not have a hole to plug in the back wall:

One note regarding using a hole saw on the back panel: The side walls are exactly 15 mm thick, i.e. this needs to be taken into account when marking the center spot for the hole saw. Otherwise it is easy to accidentally cut into the side walls if one wants to stay next to the wood slat that holds the crossover...

Here a shot of one of the speakers after reinstalling the woofer:

I am listening to Herbie Hancock's Maiden Voyage...very nice! It seems the mid and treble speakers are in good condition. Both speakers sound the same, i.e. it appears this worked out nicely!

Thanks for your help and input!

Now on to the broken cover. Seems the previous owner was not able to restrain his curiosity and broke one of the covers while trying to pry it off...Something for the next weekend...;-). I am thinking of using small magnets to hold them in place once they are fixed instead of the double sided tape...

Good work, and congrats!

Why not use velcro?