Beomaster 5500 US to Euro mains conversion

6 replies

Hello everybody,

as a follow-up to my thread on the old forum (/forum/general-discussion-and-questions/beosound-1---completely-changed-my-mind) I finally received a BM 5500 (2332, a UK model) which serves as donor for my US-spec BM 5500 (2333). The UK model seems to power up but the display stays dark, the US model is said to be working but lacking a voltage converter I couldn't test it yet, and if it works, the transplantation seems to be less work than searching for the error on my UK model.

Can anyone tell me, if I can simply unplug all cables from the UK model and plug it into the US model as it is? If so, is there anything else I have to take care of (fuses, etc.)? I already got the UK transformer out as you can see on the picture below. The picture of the transformer still in the amp is the american one. Any help is appreciated.

Okay, I admit, I'm impatient... but the amp was standing around for more than 2 weeks now and I couldn't do anything with it, and it feels like it's close to functional...

So, I already fitted the UK transformer into the US amp. I guess it should be fine. What I'm wondering about is the fuses. Since the little PCB 'on top' of the transformer (the primary side I assume, since that's were the power goes in, right?) is attached to the mains unit, I left the fuse as it is. Then, there's another fuse below the transformer, attached to the 'main' PCB, right next to where the two green cables are connected to the board. I'm not sure if I should change that one (I did, but I won't connect it before anyone with a better idea of fuses than me agrees on that...). I put the ratings of the fuses on the picture below (but you'll have to imagine the new transformer in the picture, didn't take a new one 😕 ).

Which fuses are the correct ones for 230V? All UK fuses instead of the US ones? Mixed? 😕

Thanks Mika,

that's just what I did, replacing the two fuses I found with the UK fuses (well, as I mentioned, I didn't need to change the green marked fuse as the small PCB stayed with the transformer anyway).

As for the 3rd fuse: I simply couldn't find it. The space between the rear of the amp and the transformer (below in the picture) was covered by the 2 Elkos. I removed them to look there, but still no sign of another fuse (the diagram from the service manual didn't really help in finding my way around in the amp...).

I guess the difference in the rating of the fuses might be because of the mysterious 3rd fuse (2.5A+0.5A -> 3A vs. 4A?) but I obviously have no idea about that. The only thing that worries me is if the rating isn't too high now, so that the fuse might blow to late (the amp is rated at 225W). If my memory about VA serves me right, 2.5A@125V = 312,5W while 4A@250V =1000W. Or 375W for the 3A@125V rating I just made up before 👍

Just to let you know: connected it (I admit I took a few steps back when I switched the power strip on 😐 ) saw the red dot on the display, grabbed the MCP and switched around a bit, it works 🤩.

So, thanks Mika Beer

Guess it's time now for a thread about my Beogram 5005 with the fast-moving and non-raising arm... 👍

Good work 🤒

Fuse F1 on the main board (4A) protects the part of the power supply that feeds the circuits that are active even in standby. Perhaps the power-on surge is somehow different with 120V primary and the smaller fuse is adequate with that. European models have a 4A there so it must be safe.

F2 (the mystery fuse) is not linked with that in any way, it only seems to feed the IR transmitter. I'm stumped as to why it is there only in the US model (and what purpose it serves even there). But, if you have good traffic with the MCP, the fuse is either in order or not really there at all even though the schematic shows it - so I guess you can just forget about it 😁

What a wonderfull forum this is, all the expertise from our moderators!🙂

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