Most problems with the switch row is caused by a weak return spring on the power switch.
Next up is bad alignment of the switch row disctance to the keys.
The switch mechanism itself sits pretty good covered from dust etc. and rarely needs any attention.

Martin

Thanks, Martin! 

I will check those items as soon as it arrives and post whether or not any of those are the issue. Out of curiosity, where would I buy a replacement spring?

Wade

P.S. You are such a valuable resource here, thank you for all that you do!

Oh it's you, Wade. 😂
Sorry I didn't notice. Your woofer is in the mail.

A dirty but well functioning way to fix the spring issue is to pull the spring a little tighter by
moving the one of the hooks from the eye at the end of the spring to the first or the next winding.
Add a tiny drop of glue to fix it in place.
I have seen this done by authorized repairshops back in the eighties and I adapted the solution.
A replacement spring was available from B&O at some point but that was long ago and the function
and result is basically the same.
But check the thing when it arrives and let us know.

Martin

EDIT: The same applies to the Beomaster 1700 (type 1701) that is basically the same machine only with included AM.
It will also fix the non-latching switches problem in Beomaster 2200 and derivates Beocenter 3300 and 4000.

Double thanks, Martin! 

Sounds like a simple enough repair and I'll make sure to post pictures of what I do. I suspect the unit will also need a good cleaning upon arrival. 

Wade

Well, I received the unit and attempted the spring fix. After loosing the spring for a brief period of time (talk about nerve-racking!) I was able to try the fix Martin suggested. The problem has persisted though.... 

Here's what seems to be going on: I plug in the unit and it automatically comes on. When I press the off button the switch inside doesn't seem to stick. The switch opens back up as soon as I removed my finger from the off button and it resumes whatever it was on before (phono, tape or FM). 

Why would the switch not stay closed? 

If pics would help I'd be happy to post them. 

Wade

The whole row of switches (the whole board module) can be adjusted with relation to the activating arms
from the buttons.
Ideally, there should be a little free play between the activating arms and their respective switches
square plastic heads. Can you tell if this is the case here or is one or more of them touching ?

Martin

Martin,

There is definitely space between the undersides of the aluminum buttons and the square switch heads. I would guess (without taking it apart again) that the space is about 50-75mm. The problem appears to be that when the 'Off' button is pushed it does not disengage the current function and the 'Off' switch inside does not stay pushed. Having not seen it in proper working order, I do not know if the 'Off' switch is supposed to just disengage the current function and/or if the off switch is supposed to stay pushed down when pressed (the switch inside, not the exterior button). 

Thanks!

Wade

The distance I am talking about is the one from the square switch heads (red, black or white plastic squares) to
the black plastic arms that pushes them when you press a button.
A little play of about 1mm or so is normal here.
If they touch, the release rod may not work correctly.

Martin

Wade, did you ever get a new spring for the power switch? I have a missing spring and don't know where to source a new one?

Thanks,

Jamie