Yes that is what I meant. It makes sense but there was no sign of glue. I will cement them in place. Fortunately the tuning scales look fine so I can leave them alone. Thanks for your warning about the sliders they did not seem to be noisy so I will not risk anything. I suspect aligning the potentiometers with the panel sliders might be enough of a problem.

The instruction on re stringing seems very detailed so I should be able to do that.  It seemed almost self evident when I took the cord off but I have had too much experience of dial cords to be complacent.

Many thanks for all your help

John

John wrote:

Thanks for your warning about the sliders they did not seem to be noisy so I will not risk anything. I suspect aligning the potentiometers with the panel sliders might be enough of a problem.

I was referring to cleaning the panel sliders, not the pots themselves. Aligning is easier than it seems - just drive all sliders and pots to (say) left end, and they will go into place when you lower the top on them.

The dial cord is not one of the worst but can take several tries to get working properly. When reassembling, note the cabling that goes to the moving dial light. It has a spring thing inside it, and it is supposed to keep it against the front panel even after you've swung it down. Otherwise the dial will stop mid-travel when the cable binds with the higher components below. Drove me nuts until I figured this out!

Thanks Mika,

I might just give the pots some cleaner while it is open. I keep finding problems as I go on. The tuning and stereo indicator PCB and lamp holders were adrift when I looked inside so I dont know how they were originally secured. The coloured glass is not a problem now and I have glued them to the panel burt I still have a couple of puzzles with the lamp units.

The tuning lamp holder has a screw holding the white plastic to the PCB but the other one has nothing except for being held in place by the bulbs. The bigger puzzle is how to fit the whole unit. I can see two springy plastic fingers that look as if they should wedge the unit between the top and bottom rails of the panel but they are only at one end. I suspect that there should be two at the other end also so that the whole lot is a push fit but these have broken off. Am I missing something or will I have to resort to double sided tape on one end? 

I keep finding these oddities,  B&O are so meticulous in their design that I can never be sure with vintage equipment whether something is broken and missing or I have overlooked the obvious when something does not fit.

I really appreciate your experience,

John

No problem John, sharing whatever I've learned is half the fun 🙂

Unfortunately I really can't remember the mechanical details of that light panel too well. Unless anybody else has some input on that, I'll open my spare receiver and take a look later (it's just standing in a closet pending more work anyway).

Mika ,

I just had a careful look at the panel and I am now certain that there should be two fingers on the other end also I think I will be able to fabricate a channel out of resin and filler to bond to the pcb. this will hook under the channel on the top frame and the remaining fingers will act as retaining clips at the bottom. It hope this will secure it. Not as elegant as a B&O fabrication but it will be out of sight . I will let you know if it works.

John

Just to wind up the thread,  I have put all back together and it sounds excellent. Also the advice I had on the light sub-unit from Dillen worked fine and it all fits quite well.

Thanks to everyone

John

Excellent work 🤒

This is one of my favourite Beomasters, great looks (albeit a bit of space consuming...) and great performance in the same package. There wasn't much talk on these when I got mine, but it seems to have gotten a following in the recent times! Here's an old arrival picture of mine in case somebody is still wondering what we are talking about 🙂

Well done, John. Very interesting to read about your restoration project. I have a BM 2000 with no lights -so now I know what to do 🤒

And @tournedos: Very nice BM 2000 on the picture. Mine is white (also very nice) -but after I saw yours, I have to look for another one in wood/black trim like yours.

😡 Damn -this hobby is getting too expensive 😕

Hello Steffen, Thank you for your kind comment. The lights were quite straight forward with Dillen's kit and instructions. The most tricky part I found was the light on the cursor. It seemed as if the end of the flexible wire was used as a fixing solder tag. 

I must admit I find that these older B&O units are a bit more elegant than the current models. It is a shame that they have moved away from separate units but I must accept that the fully integrated systems have their own attractions, especially for convenience.