beomasster 2000 ( opening)

19 replies

Can anyone help me?

I have just acquired a Beomaster 2000 that has had a rough time. The manual tuning is jammed and I would like to free it. One end wooden trim has come loose and so far I have removed the base cover and the screws fixing the works to the wooden frame. It appears as if the main boards should hinge up from the base at the rear.  I have the service manual but can not follow the exploded diagram to see how it should be done nor can I see any obvious hinges. 

    Some of the units and trim are loose and this may be intended or due to distortion and perhaps broken fixing lugs so I don't want to cause any more damage by forcing things. Can anyone tell me how to open the works?  On some other units I have, there has been a little drawing on the base that makes it obvious but I can find nothing here.

Many thanks in advance

John

First of all you'll need to tell us which Beomaster 2000 you have 🙂

If it is the '70s "ironing board", the top of the unit flips up not unlike the Beocenter 9500 series, only that the hinges are in the rear edge. The circuit boards themselves won't move anywhere with any reasonable amount of work!

Thanks Mika.

I persevered assuming the hinges were at the rear as you said. There were some slight distortions and loose woodwork but as you reassured me what should happen, I have now got it standing upright and can sort out the loose bits. The tuning capacitor is very stiff and I can also get at it to ease the stiffness.

Many Thanks indeed.

John

Good! This is a great sounding receiver and well worth restoring. Getting the case parts aligned properly can get annoying when putting the receiver back together. I've fixed two of these and never got the hang of it, always takes several tries before the buttons sit centered in their slot...

If the FM presets are stuck, they can be fixed. Let us know if you need more advice.

Mika, It is going well at the moment and am steadily getting the bits back. The tuning capacitor is freeing but I think I will have to re string or at least shorten the string  as the drive slips.

I have had sound from the FM using the pre-sets and agree it is very impressive. Two of the presets are stuck, I had intended to ignore these but if they can be freed I think I will do this before reassembly. 

Many thanks

John

You'll need to remove the preset trimmers from the PCB they are installed on (I seem to remember you have to desolder all wires coming to the PCB, make notes before doing that!). Then, very carefully pull the plastic thumbwheel off the metal axle. Spray a little contact cleaner or isopropanol on the axle and inside the trimmer, then carefully work the axle with pliers. It should come loose and start working nicely after you've turned it end to end several times.

Finish off with a tiny amount of lubricant on the axle (I think I used white lithium grease - don't get that on the actual carbon track inside the trimmer) and it's a good idea to lubricate the still working trimmers as well. Push the thumbwheels back in place and they should still have enough grip to turn the preset with no problems. If not, epoxy might be the answer. I had to free 9 of my 10 presets and all ended up working fine!

Do all your dial & marker lights work? It's a silly circuit and needs the exact right bulb values to work properly. I believe Dillen can supply these if need be.

Re: the sticky dial, you'll probably also need to clean and lubricate the metal rod that the dial pointer rides on.

I have found the dial rod seems a bit rusty so I think metal polish and lubricant is needed.

None of the dial lights work so I will have to look for something common. I will check them but as none work it may be a simple broken wire. The pcb with the tuning and stereo indicator was loose which makes me suspicious. The presets seem as if they are going to pass the time for a while so I might leave them till the set is working and think aabout them again.

 

John

The indicator light circuit was probably designed by someone after way too many Carlsbergs... if the moving dial bulb is out, "on" and "stereo" won't work either as it supplies power to the others. The tuning balance circuit has its own quirks. Anyway most of the bulbs were out on mine, seems like a failure prone type or maybe they are just driven a bit hard on these Beomasters.

I took the easiest first and fixed the pre-sets.  When I unclipped the assembly I ffound I could remove them from the pcb one at a time and this made remembering the wiring easy. Your description how to free the slider worked fine. I have removed the dial cord as it was slack so the tuning and stereo lamps are easily accessible. The coloured plastic "lens"parts had come loose so I will have to refit them. They don't appear to be secured in any way so is there a trick of fixing them to the bulb housings so that the whole assembly can be refitted? It looks as if the whole light unit had been designed during a Wednesday Forum. Perhaps that is the best time to work on it!

John

John wrote:

It looks as if the whole light unit had been designed during a Wednesday Forum. Perhaps that is the best time to work on it!

😂

If you mean the coloured plastic windows that show through the front panel, they are supposed to be fixed on the front panel, not the bulbs. I guess they were originally glued, same thing with the clear "rails" on the tuning dial. I think I used contact cement to fix mine (don't get it on the visible part). The dial windows were all cloudy so I removed them and cleaned them as well before glueing them back on.

The volume etc. sliders can also be disassembled and cleaned if they are dirty underneath, and they probably are. It's been a while, but I seem to remember that there was a danger of breaking them in the process, so proceed with care if you decide to do that...

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