Beolab Penta 6603 MK1 restoration project

65 replies

I picked these up last Friday on a whim from a local classified ad. The woman selling them said they had been left behind years ago by a boyfriend and she wanted them gone. I went to look at them and was unable to test them, but cosmetically they were OK considering they were 28 years old (1986 production)

Midranges all had rotten foam as is to be expected. I offered her $100 for the pair and he gladly accepted.

When I got them home I hooked them up. One tower powers on, green lights and plays. It doesn't sound great kinda muffled, but all 9 drivers work.

The other tower green lights for a moment, then let out some magic smoke and amber lighted. I took the amplifier off and powered the tower externally. Sounds about the same as the other tower and all 9 drivers work.

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I opened the amplifier and took a look inside. I noted a couple gate resistors that were cooked but nothing else visible. I found the 5a/250v slow blow fuse was blown so I replaced it and powered it back on with the power supply to the side so I could get a better look.

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R99 and R100 both glowed red hot for 2 seconds or so before ghosting the fuse. During which time the only output is a steady 60hz (sounds to be) hum from the woofers.

I tore the amplifier the rest of the way down and started making a parts list.

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The crossover boards are in good shape, nothing cooked but a few of the small gray resistors show cracking.

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I ordered all new resistors and MKP caps to replaced the old dried up electrolytics.

Now waiting on parts :-)

 

 

 

Good luck.  Keep us posted.

I figured while I was ordering parts I would order a couple OPA2134's as well to replace the old op amps on the main board (1). I'm looking at the schematics and I'm not sure if I need to replace just one or both.

IC2 is a TL072CP
IC3 is a MC1458P

 

There is also another IC1 MC1458P on board (2)

I'm 99% confident in saying the IC2 / TL072CP is the only opamp in the audio signal path.... So I'm going to leave the MC1458's alone.

 

Lots of parts coming in from UPS tomorrow!

StuckE30 wrote:
I'm 99% confident in saying the IC2 / TL072CP is the only opamp in the audio signal path.... So I'm going to leave the MC1458's alone.

Correct! The others are for the auto turn on/off and for the protective switch off.

You should also replace the signal path capacitors , C1, C2, C5 & C25 to Wima film caps.

 

Did you replace the potentiometers? They are responsible for the "no load current" adjustment. If there is a defect, the transistors glow up...

Replace ALL electrolyth capacitors.

Thanks for the advice guys! I ordered every capacitor on the board EXCEPT the film caps, where can I get these red Wima film caps? Nevermind I see Mouser has them too they are just in a different category because they are film type!

 

All the electrolytics should be in today.

Yes I ordered new trimmer pots as well, I'd read that those dry out and help kill the resistors mine had glowing. Those should also be in today.

Search the web for Wima capacitors, i get mine from Mouser.

Location: Mexico city

Retired
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Restored various 1960-70 items
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OK, ordered the red wima's from Mouser, they should be here tomorrow!

Most of my parts came in today from Mouser, all I'm waiting on now are the red Wima's.

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I desoldered everything on board 1 that needed to come off, all the big resistors R99-R104, both trimmer pots, IC2 and all the electrolytics.

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Close up of the new Burr Brown OPA2134 opamp that replaced the TL072CP.

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I've got one question regarding the trimmer pots, what value should I set R59 and R95 to prior to powering up the amplifier to adjust them? Is that at all critical?

If I'm reading the service manual correctly I am to connect my DMM across R103 and R104 and adjust R95 till the DMM reads 30mv.... then adjust R59 until the DC offset at the amplifiers output leads is eliminated down to zero.

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