Which Oil?

25 replies

I am back in the USA for a visit and my B&O needs some cosmetic work.  I have a pair of S-80 speakers in teak and BG 4002 in rosewood/pallisander.  The local Do-It Yourself/home hardware center has three types of wood oil:  tung oil, teak wood oil and Danish oil.  Can anyone advise which type of oil I should be using?  Also, if the teak on the speakers feel a bit rough, should I hand-sand the wood with superfine sandpaper before applying the oil?

Thanks in advance for any advice.

Danish oil seems to be the choice of many of Beoworlds speaker restorers Stephen. You need to keep up with it though, re-apply annually I believe.

Personally I always French polish my speaker restorations but this is quite intensive to get right finish. Well worth the effort though.

Teak has quite an open grain for a hardwood so it isn't unusual for it to feel slightly rough, especially when compared to rosewood. If it bothers you you can apply some grain filler & smooth off with fine steel wool before oiling & polishing.

Chris.

I use Danish oil, which in fact is a boiled Linseed oil, if the teak is lacquered or varnished before, you will have to sand of all the laquer, start with a 180 grain paper, then 220 and at last very fine with 400, then oil, wipe of excess after 1/2 hour, let dry for 24 hours,  sand lightly with 400, oil, wipe of excess after 1/2 hour, let dry, done. After this, once every, or every 2nd year, clean lightly with thinner, oil, wipe of excess, let dry, done. Use lint free cotton rags for the oil (old well washed T shirt or the like).

And do it outside or in the garage, linseed oil stinks.😂

Location: Mexico city

Retired
Printing machine technician
Restored various 1960-70 items
Rock and Roll music
Collecting Vinyl
Restored Jukebox Wurlitzer 1050

Another question. I have here a BM1001, which I totally recapped etcetera. This master has a black aluminum top, which I've taken apart and cleaned thoroughly. Now, the problem is, that touching the switches leaves traces from your (greasy) hands. Do I have to oil them with a thin layer of any kind of oil, which makes them shiny of course. Or should I paint them with a special photo lack? This wouldn't be my first choice, as it isn't done with the original parts. Any thoughts?

Location: Utrecht

Quite a challenge to achieve "Less is More" while having the Beovirus.

Beobuddy wrote:
Or should I paint them with a special photo lack?

I would try with a Polyurethane clear satin matte spray

Location: Mexico city

Retired
Printing machine technician
Restored various 1960-70 items
Rock and Roll music
Collecting Vinyl
Restored Jukebox Wurlitzer 1050

Did you do this before?

I'm slightly frightened if spraying the paint fails. It's not mine.

Location: Utrecht

Quite a challenge to achieve "Less is More" while having the Beovirus.

I use it for Brass and copper pieces, to keep it from oxidizing and showing fingerprints

You can also try with Pledge for forniture, will damage nothing and can easily be cleaned of again.

 

Location: Mexico city

Retired
Printing machine technician
Restored various 1960-70 items
Rock and Roll music
Collecting Vinyl
Restored Jukebox Wurlitzer 1050

For all my wood and aluminium part I'm using "HG meubelfinish spray".

Works like magic and cost 5 euro!

This one? 😁

 

 

Location: Utrecht

Quite a challenge to achieve "Less is More" while having the Beovirus.

Beobuddy wrote:

This one? 😁

 

 

Same sh1t,😂 I use pledge even for acrylics, covers small scratches

 

Location: Mexico city

Retired
Printing machine technician
Restored various 1960-70 items
Rock and Roll music
Collecting Vinyl
Restored Jukebox Wurlitzer 1050
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