Thank´s, you are right the pre-out is a fixed one.

1.500 Euros is in my budget and what you think, how will it sound with the Beolab 11 and 6002?

There is a PRE Peachtree module, but it is very expensive, 3.200 Euros. This price is out of my budget.

"Besides that, you can’t control the volume if you use a TV as pre-amp. They all have fixed analog out."

Many have variable audio, and it varies within make and model.  

Regards

The main reason for a digital Pre Amplifier is, that the DAC in the TV Sets aren´t as good as I expect.

Does anyone use Beolabs with non B&O amplifiers?

How does anyone else connect their digital devices to their B&O Systems?

Best regards

Thomas

Hi Thomas,

I was struggling for the same problem some time ago.

I used to use my beocenter 2300 to connect my sources (via aux) to the speakers.

As i was planning to go for a surround set and to improve the soundquality of the digital sources, I decided to buy a surround processor.

After doing some research, the Emotiva UMC-1 seems to be the best choice. It's only 500 dollars with the same (or better) performance as the 2000 dollar processors. Also the DAC in the UMC-1 is very reasenable and made a major improvement above using the internal DAC's of the sources themselves.

When you buy a surround processor, you also have the advantages of going to a surround setup, maybe only for music blu-rays. But you can always connect. More speakers.

I have the following set up:

-panasonic 42" plasma

- emotiva umc-1 surround processor

-eminent mediaplayer

-humax settop box

These are all connected via HDMI.

-beocenter 2300 connected analogue

- beolab 1

- beolab 2

- beolab 8000 

And it all works perfectly together

Don't the speakers turn on and off listening to dolby surround sources when there is no signal present? For example, watching a movie with a scene with lots of talking, the front speakers left and right should turn off after 3 min.

What is your center speaker? Or do you use stereo only (with sub)?

Thanks!

Best regards
Ralf

The speakers are not shutting down, because I fake a powerlink connection. I have all wires connected from a mk3 powerlink cable.

So I included the mass, trigger, ground and left, right, rear, etc cable. The trigger comes from the 12v output of the emotiva, converted to 5v for the powerlink cable. It's very easy to do and works perfect.

I don't have a center speaker yet, so I'm using it as a true 4.1 dolby surround system. Works perfectly for me.

Thanks for the details - that is something really interesting for me!
Unfortunately I am not able to do these things myself...

How did you do it? Any hints or drawings?
I might try to find an electrician who is able to help me out.

I am sure this kind of connection would be very welcome by lots of B&O users who want to stick with the active beolab speakers but are not willing to or able to spend a fortune on a Beosystem 3.

Best regards from Germany
Ralf

I got all wiring diagrams from peter pan:

http://translate.google.com/translate?sl=auto&tl=en&u=http://www.hifi4all.dk/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=23818

And if you can't or will not do it by yourself you can buy the converters on this website: 

http://www.av-connection.dk/?PGr=5665&ML=328

WOW!

That is good news.
This got me thinking about changing back to B&O speakers...

THANKS AGAIN!

Best regards
Ralf