What are you working on now?

272 replies
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Received a complimentary Form1 with another purchase, it the usual condition - without foam.  After reading the archives on the issues everyone was having with the original foam, I bought a cheap set of Logitech 150 foam replacements for $10-for-2-sets, and affixed them with trim adhesive.  Not ideal nor exact replacements, but serviceable given the time and effort I was willing to put into it.  If someone ever has a better solution, I can always shave them off. Unit seems to work fine without the upper cushions, but then, I'm not overly concerned with comfort, fit and finish of this particular headset.  Hopefully someone else can find this information useful to repair their sets without foam.
Nice quickfix to get the useable again. I was recently looking into a LOT that among other things also contained a set of Form 1, so did some research and found this old thread where different solutions where tried /forum/general-discussion-and-questions/olufsen-form-1-replacement-foams In some of the latest post’s in the thread Matador has posted several pictures of his solution, and in a later post also attached instructions for how to make them

Location: Denmark

A Beolab Terminal that I bought for $50 had lost a battle with a glass of some sort of sticky cocktail.  Half the buttons were non-responsive, so I took it apart and bathed the components in Iso.  Luckily all the traces were undamaged and tested fine. Everything looked and worked great after re-assembly.
I still need to re-tape the button pad.  The original is very much a one-time-use material.  Does anyone have a "favorite tape-medium" they use for this purpose?  I was just thinking clear or perhaps thin black packing tape would work fine, and provide a bit of protection.
More "remote" work - today it's a Master Control Panel 7700, which may have been living in a moldy attic for a few decades.  Seems to mostly function, with a few non-working buttons. I thought I'd try my hand at ribbon replacement, given the crusty and brittle original ribbon cables.  I did the easy one first, just to see how it would go. On to the more complex cable controlling the LCDs ... big mistake. One dead LCD later, I concluded that there's no obvious way that I can see to replace the connection to the LCD screens except to splice into the existing ribbon cable.  The LCDs seem to be connected to the ribbon cable using some sort of random membrane that I cant make sense of. Oh well - thankfully this was just a poor-condition unit I acquired to verify the MCL output, which still works.      
Hello everyone, this is my first post on Beoworld. I would like to share a small project I have been working on: a built-in RIAA phono preamp for the Beomaster 6500/7000, using the original circuit. I have just installed it, and after a quick initial check, it seems to be working properly so far.

Location: Japan

That is impressive, super clean!

Welcome Shin.

Regards, Johan

Location: Netherlands

My B&O Icons:

Beoplay-A1.png Beoplay-A1.png
Beoplay-H95.png Beoplay-H95.png
Beoplay-P6.png Beoplay-P6.png
Beoremote-Beo4.png Beoremote-Beo4.png
Beoremote-One.png Beoremote-One.png
Beosound-5.png Beosound-5.png
Beovision-10.png Beovision-10.png
Hi Everyone first post here looking for a bit of help if possible I’ve recently purchased this beocenter 3300 as a non functioning machine I’ve stripped it down and replaced the spring on the power switch and now have it powering up and the record deck working with a bit of messing about, was just wondering if there’s anywhere to find spares for these or if anyone knows of a complete non working system I can make a good one out of the two from if that makes sense
Hi Shaun and welcome to Beoworld!

Great work so far on the Beocenter 3300.  A number of spares are available over at one of our site sponsors here:  link

I am not an expert on the older systems, but there may be a number of other models that share parts.  For example, apparantly the same amplifier sections are found in Beomaster 2200 and Beocenter 4000 (I discovered this from this very old thread, so have a search about on the forum:  /forum/imported-unmapped/beocenter-3300)

Location: Warwickshire, UK

My B&O Icons:

BeoCenter-9500.png BeoCenter-9500.png
Beoremote-Beo4.png Beoremote-Beo4.png
Beovision-10.png Beovision-10.png
Beotime.png Beotime.png
Beosound.png Beosound.png
Beosound-Explore.png Beosound-Explore.png
Beosound-Essence.png Beosound-Essence.png
Beoplay-P2.png Beoplay-P2.png
Beoplay-M3.png Beoplay-M3.png
Beoplay-H4.png Beoplay-H4.png
Beoplay-H3.png Beoplay-H3.png
Beoplay-Form-2i.png Beoplay-Form-2i.png
Beoplay-Earset.png Beoplay-Earset.png
Beoplay-A2.png Beoplay-A2.png
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Location: Villach, Austria

swo
Hi Didier,

The recovering of the speaker looks great.

I've recently refurbished the ABR panel in both my RL60s and my next job is to recover them. I wondered if you completely removed the old fabric first? I'm guessing that unless the original is removed first the forming of the B&O raised logo would not be possible?

How did you approach this job please and how did you form the raised logo?

I've got the fabric and replacement RL straps already.

Thanks in advance.

Location: Leicestershire

My B&O Icons:

Beovox.png Beovox.png
An ESP32 firmware that lets a Bang & Olufsen Beolab 3500 (MkI & MKII) satellite speaker activate a source without its real Master unit present. Unlike the Menu-0-0-4 trick, this stays permanent even after a power loss — and on MK I it also gives more possibilities, like selecting different sources.  

Location: Villach, Austria

swo
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