Battery acid corrosion had broken the negative terminal in my Video Terminal’s battery compartment, so I made a new terminal using a re-purposed picture hook.
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Location: Warwickshire, UK
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Then cleaned up yet another Beo4 remote and must have been on auto-pilot because I didn’t spot the obvious mistake until re-assembled!
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Location: Warwickshire, UK
My B&O Icons:
Battery acid corrosion had broken the negative terminal in my Video Terminal’s battery compartment, so I made a new terminal using a re-purposed picture hook. Login to view imagegreat job of re purposing other materials for these repairs. At some point there might not be enough donor remotes for spare parts anymore.
Location: Denmark
Then cleaned up yet another Beo4 remote and must have been on auto-pilot because I didn’t spot the obvious mistake until re-assembled! Login to view imagethat is perfect as a IR command converter then ?
Location: Denmark
that is perfect as a IR command converter thenHa ha! My OCD won't let me leave it like that! I replaced the keyboard because a previous owner had picked away at the volume button and that was annoying me. It's actually a tatty one that I leave on my desk to check my answers to Forum Beo4 questions. It also has a missing pixel line on the screen but it's over to the left hence rarely appears. Login to view image
Location: Warwickshire, UK
My B&O Icons:
One of the simpler projects: Updating the Beogram audio cable.
The audio cable on my Beogram 4000 had been shortened and, after checking the pinout, had actually been done wrong as the both shielding were connected to the same pin.
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I bought Sommer Cable Galileo 238 Plus BK (2 meters) and a new DIN plug from Ryan (only gold was in stock, but I will not see it anyway).
Stripping the wire:
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Sorting out the shielding:
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Soldering on the plug:
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The result:
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I also do the same to the power plugs as cable has usually yellowed and I feel its nicer it both cables match. Obviously this does not change anything with regards to audio quality, but it allows the extension of the cable and is a nice visual update.
The audio cable on my Beogram 4000 had been shortened and, after checking the pinout, had actually been done wrong as the both shielding were connected to the same pin.
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I bought Sommer Cable Galileo 238 Plus BK (2 meters) and a new DIN plug from Ryan (only gold was in stock, but I will not see it anyway).
Stripping the wire:
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Sorting out the shielding:
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Soldering on the plug:
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The result:
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I also do the same to the power plugs as cable has usually yellowed and I feel its nicer it both cables match. Obviously this does not change anything with regards to audio quality, but it allows the extension of the cable and is a nice visual update.
Nice job - but as I see it, there is no longer any shielding between the two signal leads.
There is quite an amount of amplification to whatever comes out of that cable, so even
the tiny amount of transfer caused by capacitive coupling between the two long parallel
leads close together could cause the channels to mix a little (loss of channel separation).
It's marginal - that's correct, but the old cable was in fact of better quality in this respect.
The new cable would be better suited for balanced signals, really, - stage gear, microphones with long leads and the likes.
And you are absolutely right about the two grounds.
Martin
There is quite an amount of amplification to whatever comes out of that cable, so even
the tiny amount of transfer caused by capacitive coupling between the two long parallel
leads close together could cause the channels to mix a little (loss of channel separation).
It's marginal - that's correct, but the old cable was in fact of better quality in this respect.
The new cable would be better suited for balanced signals, really, - stage gear, microphones with long leads and the likes.
And you are absolutely right about the two grounds.
Martin
i do agree that the original cable probably has better shielding between the two signal cables. The new cable has quite thick plastic shielding on the signal cables though, so I hope the transfer is neglectable.
Can you recommend a cable that is readily available that is better suited for the job?
I need to re-paint part of a Beogram 4000, do you have a recommendation when it comes to the black color used?
as always thanks for your valuable input!
Can you recommend a cable that is readily available that is better suited for the job?
I need to re-paint part of a Beogram 4000, do you have a recommendation when it comes to the black color used?
as always thanks for your valuable input!
It's difficult to find cable of the same type as the original.
So far I have managed with what I could find in the dungeons from scrapped units and leftovers collected over decades from closed repairshops, but perhaps Steve can give us an idea?
The original black color seems to vary a little. If this is because of age and sunlight or because the original production spanned several paint batches I cannot say.
A not-to-reflective but not exactly flat silk black either, should be close.
Martin
So far I have managed with what I could find in the dungeons from scrapped units and leftovers collected over decades from closed repairshops, but perhaps Steve can give us an idea?
The original black color seems to vary a little. If this is because of age and sunlight or because the original production spanned several paint batches I cannot say.
A not-to-reflective but not exactly flat silk black either, should be close.
Martin
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Hey everyone - I am slowly getting my Beo gear acquired in the UK/EU moved back to the US. The first to arrive was my BeoLink 7000 and charging base.
Is there a way to convert to 110VAC for use in USA? Service manual and a look inside the base themselves don’t offer an obvious method for doing so.
Thanks!
Hey everyone - I am slowly getting my Beo gear acquired in the UK/EU moved back to the US. The first to arrive was my BeoLink 7000 and charging base.
Is there a way to convert to 110VAC for use in USA? Service manual and a look inside the base themselves don’t offer an obvious method for doing so.
Thanks!
Location: San Francisco
I'm an automotive audio and acoustic engineer. I design loudspeakers and full sound systems for new automobiles. I also dabble with studio, consumer and pro audio projects from time to time.
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