Welcome to Beoworld!

Unless the resistors are burned or physcially broken, there's absolutely no reason for replacing them.
They don't go bad from aging like electrolytic capacitors do.

Martin

Hi

Thanks for the reply. My resistors look ok, not burnt or broken. Is there any benefit for upgrading them just in case or does someone know the readings they should be showing on a meter. 

I`m no expert, but the tweeters especially on one side do sound like they may be being over driven almost. If thats even possible

Replacing the resistors with new ones of the same spec will not upgrade or better anything.
Replacing the resistors with new ones of different specs will take the whole filter out of spec.
Wirewound resistors are rarely causing any troubles and it's even rarer to see them changing their values.
The original resistors will be fine.

Sound problems, muffled, distorted, missing treble etc.  will in almost all cases be caused by aging
electrolytic capacitors.
In rare cases and if driven hard with old (read: ohmic) capacitors, a driver can burn and that will typically be the
most sensitive one = the tweeter.

Replace the capacitors and take another listen. First then can you diagnose eventual remaining faults.

Martin

Hi Martin

Thanks again for the help.. I will look elsewhere for the issue as its plainly not the resistor.

I have already replaced the capacitors on the Rl 60`s and it is one of these that is causing the issue. If not the resistor, is it likely to be the tweeter itself?

On another note I sat down to work out which caps I need for the RL 140`s  The refoam is done! I notice they have 2 different voltage ratings (63 and 100)

I know you shouldnt change the MFD of the caps, but can I go up to the same voltage on all of the caps and can this viltage be higher than the 63 and 100volts that are specified?

Swap the tweeters if you doubt one is weak.

If pushed hard, a Beomaster 8000 is capable of outputting something like 110V AC to the speakers wires.
(Don't touch the speaker wires when playing at high volume!).
Even if you rarely (if ever) play at these levels 63V components are still a bit underdimensioned if you ask me.

The capacitors in the readymade kits are all 100V for the same reason.

Martin

Sadly..for my neighbours at least, I do like to play my music if you get my meaning 😜

I have already started searching for a replacement tweeter..the original is a Philips T8..how critical is a like for like replacement? There seem to be a lot of Philips T8 tweeters about but non the same as mine. I`m thinking its mainly down to the mounting system and the actual tweeter is very similar?

As a child of the 70`s / 80`s I always wanted a B&O system but could never afford it!  Now I`m older and the misses is more forgiving, I`m filtering it in bit by bit..speakers first.

I have twin amps each driving 2 seperate speakers. Sony F670ES and Sony F570es. Not sure how you guys rate these amps, but they are tanks. I have a Goldring record deck and a Marantz sig.cd 62 mk2

First up for replacement....For cost reasons I had two sets of Wharfedale Xarus 5000 speakers, but they are pretty poor and in my opinion sound like they are playing in the bottom of a cess pit or back of a cave!

I rebuilt the RL60 cross overs and did a few minor repairs..mostly dust caps with small finger damage and bass radiator non existence issues, coupled them with the F570ES and the sound quality diff. was staggering!! amazing. Once I sort the tweeter issue they will be just fine.

I`m now working on the 140`s. If I am right what you are saying is voltage rating is not an issue?  So within reason (and physical size) voltage can be changed as long as the capacitance remains the same. This will have no effect on the filtering? but does it mean I can burn drivers more easily? and does it matter if I use the same higher voltage for all the caps..so say 250 volts replaces all 63volt and 100volt

Also..which bit of kit should I be looking at replacing next and for what?

That`s a lot of questions..sorry

Andy

You can up the voltage spec on the caps in the crossovers - it won't change their
filter characteristics, but you shouldn't go too high either.
For most electrolytic caps it goes, that if f.e. a 100V spec'ed cap only ever sees a few volts it will
not be "excited" and it will go out of spec. Typically it will end up seemingly open circuit and
difficult - if not impossible - to "wake up" again.
Foil caps are different. They will typically not contain any fluids so will not suffer from boredom if
not brought close to their limits from time to time.

Tweeters typically blow from distortion, be that from underdimensioned amplifiers pushed too hard or from problems with
the crossovers components.
Distortion contains a huge amount of harmonics, that's a lot of energy in the treble range (to high frequencies to be audible to humans).

B&O speaker drivers are generally difficult to match with modern (or any other for that matter) drivers.
They are typically custom produced to B&Os specs etc.

But if you decide you need a tweeter, why not go for the real thing :
http://beoparts.com/2014/07/16/beovox-dome-tweeter-3/

Martin

Thanks for that link Martin I am already in contact with them about the tweeter. I upgraded the caps in the RL60`S to 250v ones..do you think this may be too high bearing in mind what you say?

@ rune..I am pretty poor at electronics..I did know about the bipolar issue from reading on this excellent forum..but any and all help is much appreciated.

If I put a list together of the caps I think I will use on the 140`s would either of you be able to comment and advise on it before I buy them?