Tue, there is someone you are missing dearly for your R&D department!π’π‘π πI am a professional inventor type of person. for now I will just hack their stuff to make it relevant in todays World. ;-)
Location: Eastwestfalia
My B&O Icons:
Tue, there is someone you are missing dearly for your R&D department!π’π‘π πI am a professional inventor type of person. for now I will just hack their stuff to make it relevant in todays World. ;-)
Location: Eastwestfalia
My B&O Icons:
Here is my planned interpretation of the control panel.
Left is the visuals, right is where the alloy conductive slugs live. This all depends on if I can get enough capacitance through the printed/painted top panel.
Love these projectsπ
Thinking bout this, I may have a wood veneer panel ontop. Sort of a nod towards B&O's current and past stuff. It could look nice onto of all that alloy.
I know a guy who uses veneers allot, so may test out conductivity and stuff. I think I can laser etch in the legends, then varnish it to a high gloss.
I may be loosing the antenna. It serves no purpose except "oooohh" factor. Plus I have to cobble something together to retract it when a user presses standby. For a speedy DIY hack I would rather not get knee deep in sending stuff to sleep and proper power management,
Here is my planned interpretation of the control panel.
Left is the visuals, right is where the alloy conductive slugs live. This all depends on if I can get enough capacitance through the printed/painted top panel.
A good idea but design wise I would change some things a little bit:
- the white text should be a little smaller
- it's easier to the eye if you use "Volume +" and "Volume -" instead of up/down
- the play/pause symbol should be smaller, too and backlit: Green = playing, Orange slow blinking = Pause
- headphone- jacket as AUX-IN to use local, wired sources.
- indicator light which sources are active (Aux, Bluetooth...)
- the classical red standby-LED. :)
Are the radio- and MP3-modules completely out of order now? If not, you might integrate them and keep their functionality, too!?
Hi.
I think the top panel will change depending on how I get along with the wood veneer and capacitance.
Looks like the Ariel is going to be omitted, I may save it in the parts box for a true radio project.
I may go for a red matrix as it will look better with the wood top.
Mp3 & radio have been dumped. This is a pure Bluetooth speaker with may aux in. The illuminated buttons won't happen, but the matrix does indicate what button has been pressed.
As soon as stuff arrives, and i can test it I will update the thread.
Ok, that's personal taste, I would still go for the aluminium panel with a few design modifications.
Where do you "construct" and design those panels? Do you use a CAD program or a graphic editor like Photoshop?
I'm excited to see the final product! :-)
If you are running out of projects I have another one for you which seems to be more software than hardware modding: Can you make a Yamaha MCX-A10 talk to DLNA networks? That would enable this lovely littel machine to be used with modern NAS systems etc.!
Hi.
I do all the CAD stuff in CorelDraw, as it directly drives my laser cutter. Plus I have been using it for years so know it well.
All change due to time and materials. I have decided to have some alloy buttons (easiest for capacitive sensing).
I bought some punched alloy material on-line. These will form the basis of the capacitive button. My MCU is just not all that sensitive to detecting capacitance under something not dialectic (veneer etc).
Now for an experiment. How to put button legends on. I don't have a silkscreen, and that is just too much setup for a little one off project. So I sprayed them with some black flat acrylic.
Now it is into my laser cutter. The way this works is that you create the text legend for the button. Then use the laser to etch off the paint that you don't need. This leaves paint forming the legend text.
After a clean with white spirit to remove and atomised paint, this is how they look. They also get a coat of acrylic lacquer to protect the paint.
Turned out ok
Next up is the top panel. The original alloy one was removed and a new one cut from 2mm acrylic, sprayed silver.
In go the buttons which sit on wires transmitting the signal to the MCU.
Testing it all works as expected, and it does :-)
Integrated into the Beosound 3 case.
Overall it looks ok, not in a true B&O style - but I am not trying to emulate them. This is more because I had some bt modules lying about and wanted to make something with them.
I now have my soft standby button thing sorted. So the antenna can stay.
Location: Sweden
My B&O Icons:
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