Powerlink and Beolab 5, I'm having a slight "buzz / whizz" from the treble.

29 replies

timhanna:
Can I ask why from Denmark? Is it cheaper?

 

Yes, by far. 

Well, this always depends on where you live and what taxes you have to pay. Also, who is going to install and transport the product to your home? Cheaper by far? I doubt it...

Weebyx:
The new ICE Power powered speakers needs a MKIII powerlinkcable. It has on wire more than the MKII

It is the MKII that has the extra cable, the MKIII is the thinner one...

You need the thicker one.

p.

Actually MKIII is the new thin cable.

 

Hi,

Hopefully this will dispell the confusion!

1) Powerlink mark 1 cable is only useful for non-digital Beolab speakers without displays.

2) Powerlink mark 2 can be used for ANY Beolab speaker with 8pin sockets.

3) Powerlink mark 3 can be used for any Beolab speaker WITHOUT displays EXCEPT Beolab 5.

I don't manufacture a Powerlink mark 1 compatible cable, because there are too many situations where it won't work to make the small cost saving worthwhile.  I produce equivalent cables to Powerlink mark 2 and mark 3, as mark 2 will work with ANY speaker and mark 3 gives a reasonable cost saving for customers who either don't need display data or can't afford Beolab 5's.  Powerlink mark 1 is the thinnest cable, followed by mark 3 and then mark 2 is the thickest.

The only exception to the rules above are the original Beolabs (eg. Penta mark 1) which used 4 pin "Speakerlink" plugs.  These are a special case and Powerlink cables will not work on these speakers without adaptation.

Regarding the "voltage reference core" in mark 3 Powerlink, this is also present in mark 2 cables, but under another name (data ground).

Best regards,

Steve.

It us best to use 8/8 PowerLink, or 'fully-wired' PowerLink as it's sometimes called with BeoLab 5s. I believe it's supplied in the box with them...

So what are the powerlink cables supplied with the Beolab 5's?

These are very thick (x4 the cross-sectional area of "other PL cables) and have the ferrite caps on either end of the cable just before the terminations?

 

10%

Yes, Lee is right - these are mark 2 cables!

Otherwise known as 8 core, 8/8 or "fully wired" (even though pin 8 is not used by Beolab 5?), these are the thickest Powerlink version.

B&O have started using a thicker version with ferrite coils on the newer versions, but these should not normally be necessary with a well designed and manufactured cable (my own personal view is that the coverage of the screening conductors on many Powerlink cables can be less than perfect).  Ferrite coils can be easily "retro-fitted", but the inductance needs to be calculated to avoid any effect on audio frequencies, hence this is not recommended as a DIY option.

Just a quick note here on cable routing - as Powerlink cables carry very small audio signals (well under 1 volt RMS at normal listening volumes), often over long distances, so it pays to be careful about where you route your cables.  Large gains in sound quality can be made by running your Powerlink cables away from sources of interference such as mains leads and sockets, "white goods" such as fridges, etc. and fluorescent lights.  Always consult a qualified electrician before installing Powerlink cables in your walls, floor or ceiling, as they will help you avoid mains cables hidden away in the building structure.  If you need Powerlink cables to cross mains cables, do this at right angles and try to space them apart if possible, rather than letting them rest on each other.  Avoid "cable tidies" that route power and audio cables together, unless they include separate screened metal compartments.

Sound complicated?  It shouldn't be if you consider it at the point of design/installation.  It's well worth the trouble.  If you've spent good money on a quality audio system, a few minutes of planning time is all that is needed to allow it to perform at its best.  Oh, and good cables, but that's another story!

Best regards,

Steve.

bayerische:

But I have one question,

There's a pretty noticeable  background "buzz" in the sound...

Clue? 

 

I'm running it via the supplied powerlink cables from my beocenter 2300.

 

 

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