Thanks, I'll try that.

The adapter is a coaxial-to-f-cable-adapter, as my coaxial is of the old kind, and the Link Amplifier requires an f-cable. These adapters thus bridge the coaxials coming in and going out, to ensure that the cables can connect.

I have my BV11 (sitting room) and BV10-32 (kitchen) "connected" through a simple and ingenious scheme: HDMI splitters plus using a puc to control the Sky box from each TV.

Works like a dream. No need for masterlink, both in separate rooms. Better still, I get a HD picture on the BV10-32 as it's coming directly from the Sky box in the other room, rather than via the BV11. So I can control the box, plus get an upgraded image and even show a HD picture on both TVs, without a delay - something I could never achieve via masterlink.

How long is your HDMI cable 😎

MM

Millemissen wrote:

How long is your HDMI cable 😎

Does it matter? You get a much stronger and better signal than sending via an analogue cable, via masterlink. And no delay.

Well, if the two rooms are at each end of a house, I suppose it would be a problem.

Nice solution, and you are not the only one to do it that way.

MM

Milton78 wrote:

The RF Modulator is only linked once, i.e. from the BV 7 and nothing going back. Is that the problem?

If I understand this right, it is a problem. There should 1 cable going back to the RF Link Amplifier. From "LINK TV out" (BV7) to "mod in" (link amplifier). Not having this cable explains the static snow, because there is simply no signal. Tap 1 and 2 should go to BV7 and BV6

stefan wrote:

RF modulator in BV7 must be set to auto/ on.

Search link frequency in your link TV.

Both are not necessary.

The RF modulator in the BV7 switches on automatically if needed. Searching the link frequency is not needed with a BV6. It was with the old MX7000.. So it is plug and play!