Ammier wrote:

Thanks! Completely agree, its a great setup! After a couple of nights of movies I think its money well spent and the whole package wasn't that expensive comparatively speaking. We are in a new build here in Norway, moved in last year, there is about a 5 cm gap behind the plaster wall before you get to the insulation so the cable management was quite straight forward. 

Thinking of my next place, was it easy to attach the TV wall mount? I have solid thick load-bearing walls in the current apartment and even on those the wall mount is starting to come away slightly! 65" is much heavier than the 55" on the other side of the same wall.

Makes me fear connecting the 65" to a plaster wall!

moxxey wrote:

Ammier wrote:

Thanks! Completely agree, its a great setup! After a couple of nights of movies I think its money well spent and the whole package wasn't that expensive comparatively speaking. We are in a new build here in Norway, moved in last year, there is about a 5 cm gap behind the plaster wall before you get to the insulation so the cable management was quite straight forward. 

Thinking of my next place, was it easy to attach the TV wall mount? I have solid thick load-bearing walls in the current apartment and even on those the wall mount is starting to come away slightly! 65" is much heavier than the 55" on the other side of the same wall.

Makes me fear connecting the 65" to a plaster wall!

Hey,

We have a Beovision 11 downstairs which is wall mounted with the electric mount so it swings out. No issue with a plaster wall but we did use a ´Molly bolt´ screw which expands behind the wall.

Regards,

Ammier

trackbeo wrote:

Ammier wrote:

Only issue I have had is the stage does not always come on with the TV and I have to re-add it in the LG settings. Need to play around with this. It also took a few attempts to set it up with the beo app in the first place.

Curious to know if menu setting "General -> Additional Settings -> Quick Start+" is turned on or off by default; and if default is On, then whether turning this feature off makes any difference?  (Your multiple initial setup attempts indicate something else is going on, but I would like to know if the TV resetting all external ports by powering down fully is a panacea.)

Just to update on this. After turning on the earc option in the sound settings of the tv, I no longer have any issues with stage coming on with the tv.

Ammier wrote:

We have a Beovision 11 downstairs which is wall mounted with the electric mount so it swings out. No issue with a plaster wall but we did use a ´Molly bolt´ screw which expands behind the wall.

Thanks. If it can take a BV11, it can definitely take a GX! I did notice those bolts when I did some research online.

I live in a high-rise building and the walls are all plaster walls and steel frame (so you have to use the toggle bolts on plaster since you can't drill into the steel frame) and it's very common to see 65 inch and larger TVs mounted directly to the wall. I am assuming some of the wall mounted storage units (like the ones in the kitchen)  are probably much heavier than even a TV so if those stay on, a TV should as well). My 2 cents worth....

Only 1.5 cents...  because those kitchen cabinets in commercial construction high-rise are screwed into furring strips (often 6" wide ripped plywood pieces) which are themselves screwed between the metal studs, behind the flange (the drywall is screwed into the front side of the studs' flanges), at designated heights above the floor, specifically for cabinet installers.  (Sometimes it's done in the bathroom too, for towel bars.)  So kitchen cabinets have extra planning & material holding them up.

Molly bolts are excellent but make sure you buy for the proper thickness of the drywall.  If not deep enough, the behind-the-wall portion digs thru the paper backing of the drywall, weakening it.  If too deep, the pre-formed metal crimps don't angle against the backside but waggle around 1/4" in space.  The dig-out of too-short Molly bolts is the same problem you get with toggle-bolt wings if you tighten them down too much.  However toggle bolts can, if properly installed, support greater weight than Mollys.  Toggle-bolts also work better when there is extra thickness that you can't buy a proper depth Molly for.  

This problem is why many professional installers switched to Toggler anchors  -- *NOT* the little Toggler SnapSkru self-drilling jobbies from Home Depot, but the 3" long Toggler SnapToggles, which have a pair of fixed zip-ties pulling the front flange to the rear toggle.  You can carelessly just yank on the ties to get the flange seated without fear of digging out the back.  This is important because "typical" installers are sometimes inexperienced and always in a big hurry and use a power screwdriver to tighten down regular toggle bolts, which can not only dig in but can start whirling around behind the wall if not held back properly.

Zip-Togglers are great, but I still chose to off-center my BV10 wall bracket by 1" just to hit an actual pre-existing wood stud!  When you lift that sucker and consider the angled force rotated out from the wall, you just won't trust some crappy piece of thin metal or "engineered" plastic...  But for a flat mounting of a modern lightweight panel, this would not be an issue.  I should probably have ripped down my drywall to add a stud and do it right but I was lazy and in a hurry.