BL2 Fuse

13 replies
B(
Offline
Bouncer (archived)
Bronze
Posted January 17, 2008 at 23:04 GMT
#1831345

My BL2 wasn't working the other day and I have traced it back to a blown fuse.  I have replaced it with a 13A fuse and it works fine now.  But the problem is the blown fuse I took out was only 3A fuse and I asked my local dealer whether its ok to put a 13A fuse in and the reply was yes.  I just want to know what the originally rating of the fuse was when fitted from factory?

I also had a problem with my 2 month old BL9 which I mentioned in the other thread.  I hope they are not inter related or its something to do with the electrical supply from my appartment.

Vic 

 

 

Peter
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Peter
Gold
Posted January 18, 2008 at 02:00 GMT
#1831346
Simplistically, V x I = W, so if you have a 240 V supply and produce 850W, you draw slightly more than 3 amps. I would use a 5A fuse!

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Keith Saunders
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Keith Saunders
BronzeFounder
Posted January 18, 2008 at 02:39 GMT
#1831347

Whilst a Beolab 2 can produce a maximum of 850 watts of output power, that is NOT the power drawn from the mains socket, if it was you would have some very high electricity bills

Power drawn by a Beolab 2 from the 240 volt mains has a maximum of 15 watts running and 400 milli-watts in standby. A 3 amp fuse in my view is the correct fuse.

Also remember that power in a DC circuit is different from power in an AC circuit.

Location: Hampshire, England

Peter
Offline
Peter
Gold
Posted January 18, 2008 at 03:12 GMT
#1831348
Isn't the 15W figure described as a 'typical ' figure? I did say my figures were simplistic!

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H(
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Hughie (archived)
Bronze
Posted January 18, 2008 at 03:47 GMT
#1831349

periodically my BL2 blows a fuse - so have replaced it with a 5amp. I seem to remember this question being asked in the old forum and the advice was not to replace with a 13amp, but if needed up to a 5amp would be sufficient.  Only my two pennies worth of experience

Hughie

Keith Saunders
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Keith Saunders
BronzeFounder
Posted January 18, 2008 at 04:24 GMT
#1831350

Peter,

The main point I was making is that the power output of the speaker is different from the power consumption (watts) and curremt (amps) drawn from the mains.

A 5 amp fuse will be fine, but I would actually use a 3 amp slow blow fuse which takes into account small spikes in current drawn from the mains without the fuse blowing.

Location: Hampshire, England

M(
Offline
meandmyshadow (archived)
Bronze
Posted January 18, 2008 at 04:52 GMT
#1831351
BeoLab 2's are boxed with a 5 amp rated fuse, while most other speakers in the range (excluding BL5's and BL1's) have a 3 amp fuse.  It is not uncommon for installaers to use the wrong mains cable.  Keith has a point about the 3 amp rated fuse but in my experience they do blow quite often if used, personally I would not use a 13 amp fuse.
B(
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Bouncer (archived)
Bronze
Posted January 18, 2008 at 11:11 GMT
#1831352

Thanks all.  Silly me (or lazy me), could have worked it out with Ohms Law.  I think I will put back a 3A fuse and see how it goes.

Thanks again for the tips.

Vic

Keith Saunders
Offline
Keith Saunders
BronzeFounder
Posted January 18, 2008 at 11:40 GMT
#1831353

Vic,

I suggest you use a 3 amp slow blow fuse which will still blow if the current exceeds 3 amps, but if it goes above the 3 amp rating for just a few milli seconds then it will not blow.

You can see some examples of "Slow blow" or anti-surge mains fuses HERE

Location: Hampshire, England

B(
Offline
Bouncer (archived)
Bronze
Posted January 20, 2008 at 08:32 GMT
#1831354

Thanks Keith.  I feel much more protected now with a 3A fuse.

Vic

 

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