65535 wrote:

Well, dang. Connecting via Ethernet and the app sees it within a few seconds of powering up.

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👍

 

Make shure it is wake up to lan en set the timers or it takes for ever to power up.

Carolpa is right you can use the app, never new this 😁

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Everything is peachy...

Apart from the fact I believed the BeoSystem 4 was WiSA capable. However, on close inspection of both the documentation MM linked earlier and the interface itself, there is no means of connecting my BL17s and BL19 wirelessly.

Argh.

Is the only route here to repurpose my Transmitter 1? i.e. using short patch cables from the PLx outputs of the BeoSystem 4 to the inputs of the Transmitter 1. The only other option I can think of is something like an old Avant, or an Eclipse, but really the entire point of me fiddling about with a BS4 route was to avoid paying the "BV tax"!

Transmitter 1 is the way to go.

If you run into trouble connecting wirelessly you might want to disable the 5 Ghz band of your WLAN (helped me as far as I remember).

WISA was not very stable in my setup so I changed to wired connections again.

Ralf

Update!

Discovered my BeoSystem 4 doesn't understand HDMI-CEC meaning I need more cables to go the PUC route.

I have a question:

My Bravia KD-65X9005A does not have a PUC table specific to it. There are a bunch of Sony appliances listed as downloadable PUC entries on the BS4, including PlayStations and Blu-ray players and so on, but no 'Generic Sony Display' or suchlike.

There must be a way to configure this, so that my BeoRemote can control both the Apple TV and the Sony? The BR talks to the BeoSystem via infrared, but whether it's capable of controlling multiple external devices simultaneously is an unknown for me.

** EDIT >>

eBay item as below is a "dual" cable and looks to do what I want?

BeoSystem 4 | RJ45 STB PUC IR Blaster Transmitter for Bang & Olufsen B&O (3 M)
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/154592971061

kallasr wrote:

Transmitter 1 is the way to go.

If you run into trouble connecting wirelessly you might want to disable the 5 Ghz band of your WLAN (helped me as far as I remember).

WISA was not very stable in my setup so I changed to wired connections again.

Ralf

Ralf, apologies, I missed your response. Thank you, I am now testing fine with a Transmitter 1.

I think I had Googled whether the BS4 supported WiSA, and for whatever reason hadn't investigated much beyond the first result I found. Should teach me a lesson really.

The costs for PUC cables is not really worth mentioning - contact Steve Sounds Heavenly for this or your dealer, if you should need that.
Read the User Guide carefully for how to connect things. There is no way around that…..if you have no (B&O) experience and want to do it on your own.

By the way - I would not call the BSys4 ‘antique’ just because it has no support for CEC. In your case you might only want to use it a an audio motor, for which it is excellent (rightly programmed).

You might need to experiment with the already loaded PUC codes….or download new (which can be done online).

 

Why do you want the Beoremote One/BT to control the ATV/Sony?

First of all you must decide whether you want to control the BSys4 with the connected ATV etc and send the picture to the Sony tv (and to turn this on)?

Or if you want to use/control the Sony tv with the connected ATV and route the sound to the BSys4?

Two different approaches, ways to do this.

In the first case - see illustration/example below

In the second case - you will have to connect a sound output of the Sony tv to an input of the BSys4…and choose this for sound control (depending on the speakers you have connected there).

 

MM

 

Thanks MM.

I prefer Apple's Siri remote, but my experience with the Horizon was that the BeoRemote is the only viable option when it comes to waking and sleeping. The Horizon has the worst combination of no infrared and no CEC, meaning the Apple TV can't power the Horizon on or off. Something like a BV14 or an Avant would be different given the knowledge I've acquired on the first generation Siri remote's ability to talk the B&O IR frequency.

Anyway, the Horizon therefore has to be controlled via PUC with a BeoRemote, and I'm doing my best to get used to it!

Given the two options you provided, the second of which I'd not fully considered, my understanding is that both would involve a BeoRemote anyway - because the BS4 needs to be woken from sleep in either case, and the Siri remote can't do that. At least, if there is a way, I'm all ears!

Perhaps it was unfair to call the BS4 an antique so I deleted that quip in my edit of my last message (where I also updated the post with a link to a dual PUC cable I'd found on eBay).

Technically the BSys4 ‘needs’ a Beoremote One/IR or a Beoremote One/BT in IR mode - or the Beo4 (best with navi).

P.S. Older Apple remotes had an option to learn ir commands:

re: second option above (using BS4 as the audio engine)

I've bought an S/PDIF Toslink > coaxial Toslink converter in order to go from my Sony TV (optical) to the rear of the BS4 (not optical). I chose a small device from Amazon which could be powered from the USB socket on the rear of the BeoSystem and it's working nicely; I only mention this in the event someone else wants to do the same.

But, I'm now at a bit of a loss how to configure the BS4.

The Apple TV continues to be connected to the Sony TV, where I can control it via the Siri Remote, and the optical audio output from the Sony runs via the converter into to the digital audio in on the BS4.

I've created an "AV" source in the config and set S/PDIF to "On".

But (and I'm guessing here) the BeoSystem doesn't seem to like the fact it is only being fed audio, and shuts down shortly afterwards. If I run an HDMI cable from the Apple TV to the input of the BS4, this doesn't happen.

Is there some sort of Eco setting I've missed?