Beolink 1000 stuck sending signals

7 replies

Hi everybody, 

while fixing my 9500 an additional Beolink 1000 resurfaced which I hadn't used in a while. So I thought to give it a try and found it nearly blasted my ears away turning the volume all up on the 9500.

I assumed some mechanical problem (dust and debris stuck under the rubber buttons) so I disassembled the remote, cleaned all up and checked the batteries. I also tried the trick with shortening the contacts to purge all electrical parts.

But nothing changed. 

Checking the infrared with a camera shows that the remote is sending commands all the time. This is also the case when pulling out the batteries and putting them back in WITHOUT hitting any button. When I push a button (any), I can see some interruption in signal sending, so I guess there is still some kind of interaction between buttons and IR sender.

Is there a solution to this problem? 

 

Yours 

Ray

You should take a look at the actuall button switch. There were at least two (probably more) different switch / keyboard membrane types along the years, and some of them might be repairable. If you have the type with "clicking" metal domes, it might have collapsed and just doesn't release.

If the actual switch seems OK, it is probably a fault at the IC that reads the keys and I don't think that can be repaired. Then the best option is to buy a cosmetically challenged but working Beolink 1000 (with the same buttons) and combine the good parts.

Hi Mika, 

 

thanx for the fast reply. Are you talking about the membrane between the rubber keypad and the PCB?

Yours Ray

Ray wrote:
thanx for the fast reply. Are you talking about the membrane between the rubber keypad and the PCB?

Yes. Compare the feel of the offending switch to the others. If it has the brass coloured metal domes and doesn't click, that's the problem.

From the description in BEOCENTRAL I'd say this BL 1000 is a MK IV version. It has the MENU and MUTE button. The membrane is semitransparent with little „conductive plastic bubbles“, no clicking metal....

(all of those plastic domes seem to be okay)

Yours,

Ray

OK... can't remember how that looked like inside. Is the membrane glued on the PCB or is there a connector it is pushed into? In the latter case, you might try removing it and testing if the remote still keeps sending. If not, the fault is in the switch membrane, otherwise in the main PCB.

Well done! Usually the switches stop working when conductive coating has worn off.

It probably lasted almost 20 years before failing, so there's a good chance that it'll work a while now that you fixed it 🙂

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