Del16 wrote:
Dillen,
In the other thread I was unfamiliar with the original capacitor used in the BEOVOX S45 for two reasons: I did not have the correct photo available to see the original capacitors, or what type they were.
You kindly provided me with the correct photo at the end of the discussion.
As for the subject of audiophile capacitors; Judging by our last conversation, I take it that you don’t believe that ‘audiophile capacitors’ actually exist.
You referred to my lack of knowledge about capacitors, even though YOU did not have a clue what a Black Gate, Mundorf, or even a Jupiter capacitor was! ((As a reminder; Sonicap’s are cheap at around 3-7 dollars each)).
You didn’t even know that the vast list of capacitors I provided in the previous thread; are respected in the hifi world (Even though hundreds of thousands of people in the world are installing them into their HIGH END equipment everyday!!) You can even Google their endless discussions praising the results.
I understand that you are probably a B&O purist who only believes in sticking with the original components (WHICH IS NOT A BAD THING).
You disagree with the idea of changing internal components to something that is not stock.
(( However, not everybody in the world has to think the same as you. It’s a free country where people are allowed to have their own ideas and beliefs )).
We are not living in a Dystopian dictatorship yet😀
By the way; the coil inside my CX50 is sitting on top of a thick black plastic plate which is not touching the aluminium speaker cover. It is not making direct contact with the aluminium cover.
The speaker aluminium cabinet/rear cover is not grounded either.
&
Del16 wrote:
Dillen,
In the other thread I was unfamiliar with the original capacitor used in the BEOVOX S45 for two reasons: I did not have the correct photo available to see the original capacitors, or what type they were.
You kindly provided me with the correct photo at the end of the discussion.
As for the subject of audiophile capacitors; Judging by our last conversation, I take it that you don’t believe that ‘audiophile capacitors’ actually exist.
You referred to my lack of knowledge about capacitors, even though YOU did not have a clue what a Black Gate, Mundorf, or even a Jupiter capacitor was! ((As a reminder; Sonicap’s are cheap at around 3-7 dollars each)).
You didn’t even know that the vast list of capacitors I provided in the previous thread; are respected in the hifi world (Even though hundreds of thousands of people in the world are installing them into their HIGH END equipment everyday!!) You can even Google their endless discussions praising the results.
I understand that you are probably a B&O purist who only believes in sticking with the original components (WHICH IS NOT A BAD THING).
You disagree with the idea of changing internal components to something that is not stock.
(( However, not everybody in the world has to think the same as you. It’s a free country where people are allowed to have their own ideas and beliefs )).
We are not living in a Dystopian dictatorship yet😀
By the way; the coil inside my CX50 is sitting on top of a thick black plastic plate which is not touching the aluminium speaker cover. It is not making direct contact with the aluminium cover.
The speaker aluminium cabinet/rear cover is not grounded either.
Oh dear....
Well, let's take this in small bites;
In the other thread you showed that in your world axial capacitors were based on foil and radial capacitors were electrolytics.
That's where you are, knowledge-wise, when it comes to capacitors.
"As for the subject of audiophile capacitors; Judging by our last conversation, I take it that you don’t believe that ‘audiophile capacitors’ actually exist. "
I know about capacitors and I know about Beovox CX50.
Trying to make anything audiophile out of them is ridiculous and hilarious.
"You referred to my lack of knowledge about capacitors, even though YOU did not have a clue what a Black Gate, Mundorf, or even a Jupiter capacitor was! ((As a reminder; Sonicap’s are cheap at around 3-7 dollars each))."
What?
Where do you get this from?
Let me tell you - nowhere.
You're lying. I never stated anything to that effect - as that would've been a lie.
I certainly know about capacitors, and also the types and brands you mention.
I don't think there is a brand and/or type of capacitors, that I haven't tried.
But I do it in the lab. "Scientifically" if you like.
Not only do I listen, I also test and measure.
This reveals more than I think you'll ever imagine.
And I know audiophile nonsense, when I come across it.
"You didn’t even know that the vast list of capacitors I provided in the previous thread; are respected in the hifi world (Even though hundreds of thousands of people in the world are installing them into their HIGH END equipment everyday!!) You can even Google their endless discussions praising the results."
I understand that you are one of the audiophile followers.
"I understand that you are probably a B&O purist who only believes in sticking with the original components (WHICH IS NOT A BAD THING)."
Not at all! Where do you get this from again?
I have designed several rebuild kits doing REAL (documentable) improvements, some of which include replacement of original components with others. There's no audiophoolery around here.
It's all based on physical facts, experience and electronic knowledge.
"You disagree with the idea of changing internal components to something that is not stock."
No. (?)
I know about electronics.
You don't.
"We are not living in a Dystopian dictatorship yet😀"
What kind of world are you living in?
"the coil inside my CX50 is sitting on top of a thick black plastic plate which is not touching the aluminium speaker cover.
The electrical or mechanical connection is not the point.
The electromagnetical connection is.
But it does tell me, that you don't know anything about coils either.
Did you check the coils Q?
"The speaker aluminium cabinet/rear cover is not grounded either."
Grounded?
Eh... no, of course it's not grounded.
Would you please tell me where ground is in your speaker and why you feel this could be relevant?
"The Sonicap capacitor that I used, has the same value as the original Roederstein"
The same value?
Eh...
I'm sure you are merely talking about its capacitance - right?
Because every other parameter is different - because it's a completely different component, being a foil capacitor rather than an electrolytic.
But I'm sure it'll be fine in this position.
You can fit all the fine capacitors you like, coming in wooden boxes lined with black velvet if that'll make you sleep better at night.
But that shoud be the only reason for doing it in a Beovox CX50.
It was constructed for an electrolytic BTW. It has a certain dissipation factor that I'm sure you didn't take into account when you fitted a foil cap.
"It was recommended to me by Jeff Glowacki at www.soniccraft.com"
I do believe that...
"Here are the improvements that I made…
Better quality copper wiring."
What?
So your copper is better than what was in the cables that B&O fitted?
That's utter audiophile rubbish.
Besides, we are only talking about a few miliamps so the original leads are more than adequate for the task.
That's ohms law. Fifth grade stuff or so, - remember?
"Proper speaker binding posts which will allow the speakers for easier use in non B&O systems and with different brands of aftermarket speaker cables."
The original DIN sockets are quite good and absolutely adequate for the task.
Bare wires are easily shorted and wrongly polarised.
The DIN just plugs in - but fine with me, if you prefer screw terminals. Your choice.
But now you mention it, the speaker DIN plugs and sockets are the only international standardized plug/socket for home stereo speakers.
Everything else is non-standard.
"Better damping materials inside the cabinet to reduce cabinet colorations."
Can we see some documentation for this?
"Better capacitor which is brand new, to replace a thirty year old leaking Roederstein."
I agree. A fresh capacitor will be better than an old.
"A fresh coat of paint on the cabinet of a thirty year old speaker with scratches/imperfections."
A matter of taste, I suppose.
"A solid aluminium back panel to match the rest of the cabinet, and to replace the thin plastic one."
- Which actually performed a good bit of the dampening and wasn't at a right angle to the rest of the cabinet.
"OK SO HERE ARE THE SOUND QUALITY IMPROVEMENTS:-
a) Increased transparency."
Transparency?
One more audiophile term, that noone can document or even explain.
b) Reduced treble glare.
Sorry, what?
Is that another audiophile term?
The removing of the plastic bit in front of the tweeter was the worst modification you could ever do, if you want true sounding speakers.
c) Much better 3D soundstage with sounds appearing outside the confines of the speaker cabinet.
More rubbish.
d) Reduced cabinet colorations.
Please document this or I'll deem it rubbish.
e) The ability to play louder without distortions.
No!
Absolutely no!
Please take your lies and audiophile rubbish somewhere else.
I have designed crossover filters and I have spec'ed capacitors for production.
I know what I am talking about, and I know when a person tries to impress others with fancy words.
My advice to you would be to take a reality check and go study some electronics.
You will be amazed how much rubbish is spread out in audiophile groups and on audiophile websites.
Very little is true. Most is nonsense at best.
I will comment no more on this subject, I have much more meaningful things to do,
You did some modifications to your speakers. Fine.
If you like them better this way - fine.
But I am a Beoworld moderator and technical advisor. One of my jobs is to weed out rubbish, and I will edit and/or delete your posts or even ban you if
you keep spreading lies about me, keep putting words in my mouth that I never said and/or keep giving out wrong or bad advice or try to spread audiophile nonsense.
As mentioned already, this forum is not such a place.
Martin
